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Plug reading

RemCharger said:
The only risk you run by not using NGKs is misfiring plugs. Not the end of the world .
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Depends on one's view point....mine is different...in my '70 GTX RS23V0A****** an origional 6 barrel car, one of 350 4 speed cars built, I use nothing but Champion UJ-11G or Champion HO-8A fired by an original Prestolite Dual point distributor without vacuum advance, recurved to my specs, all plugs are NON PROJECTED semi precious center electode type gapped at 0.035"......all plugs ahow a dark tan insulator color....no over heating, carbon fouling, or oil residue..... It's been this combination for 30 years......AND the world HAS NOT ENDED thru the use of Champion spark plugs. The engine was dyno'd run and tuned to achieve ~ 465 hp at 6000 RPM......all without NGK spark plugs.......if your so enamored with NGK spark plugs....go and use them.....I prefer Champion spark plugs......just my opinion of course........
BOB RENTON
 
I'd prefer you used champions as well. Whatever turns your crank.
 
who cares what brand spark plug the point is to use a hotter plug then ngk 6 to see if that helps.
 
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gtxrt said:
who cares what brand spark plug the point is to use a hotter plug then ngk 6 to see if that helps.
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Why not a different brand with different electrode configurations....or ....are you stuck with the NGK brand? (based on ???).....a take a chance that the world MAY end if switching brands?????.........expirament.......
BOB RENTON
 
RJRENTON said:
Too easy is insuring that the torque on the right rear tire's valve stem cap tight but not too tight.....or are you just looking for something to do then report your detailed findings? Sounds like someone from California, who sufferers from OCD,. presents detailed explanations of vacuum advance readings in one degree increments and speculates which is the best. If you're looking for something to do, try different heat range and brands of plugs.......in spite of all the opinions that NGK is the only brand to use (you run the risk of the world coming to an end if you don't use NGK), why don't you experiment a little....then we all can debate why, what ever your determination was or is, is incorrect....because ....it isn't how i have MY car set..???.....Now we can debate the virtues of synthetic oil, or best wax, or alternator amp gauge vs volt metergauge, using distributor vacuum advance, either ported or manifold sourced is best....... just a casual observation.......
BOB RENTON
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You know, Bob, it's hard to take seriously someone like you who obviously has some valuable information to share, when they add **** like this (see bold type above) to their reply. I could give a rat's *** what you think about California but how does adding that to your writing enhance your point, aside from making you look small minded?
 
440
9.5:1 CR
Eddy head
Timing 26 initial, 36 all in
M1 intake
950 Holley
MP .484 cam
Headers
1000 miles


IMG_4900.jpeg
 
coloradodave said:
You know, Bob, it's hard to take seriously someone like you who obviously has some valuable information to share, when they add **** like this (see bold type above) to their reply. I could give a rat's *** what you think about California but how does adding that to your writing enhance your point, aside from making you look small minded?
Click to expand...
This particular person referenced is from California but I refrained from the actual name for obvious reasons......I have nothing bad to say about California, and obviously not you, if you know the person referenced, great, if not, just ignore the reference. The only real problem is your Governor and the emission laws and regulations imposed on the balance of the country. Since I reside in Illinois, we have our own Governor ("Fat ***" J.B.PRITZKER) problems.....starting with continual tax increases and sanctuary city giveaways funded by the taxpayers......yes I do have an abundance of knowledge and willingness to share if/when I can and it applies to a given subject.....sometimes with a little sarcasm.......
BOB RENTON
 
Aron Gleason said:
12.16 @109. But I've done alot of upgrades to make it run better. Better carburetor, better ignition, fuel system and a few other things.
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So everything internal is still the same? What heads?
 
RemCharger said:
The only risk you run by not using NGKs is misfiring plugs. Not the end of the world .
Click to expand...

The world did in fact end, but you all didn’t notice because I switched my car to NGK when I got it and the world came back.
 
In my humble opinion, it looks like you don't have a complete "burn" of the air fuel charge. Cold plug maybe, but to me that sooty plug is just too rich and a hotter plug won't fix that. Just my 2 cents. JC
 
Aron Gleason said:
Its a modified 950 quick fuel/thumper carb. 6lbs of fuel pressure. Floats are set in the middle of the sight glass.
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does the quick fuel carb have a power valve like the Holley that can get blown out or need a different one for lower engine vacuum ?
 
gtxrt said:
does the quick fuel carb have a power valve like the Holley that can get blown out or need a different one for lower engine vacuum ?
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It does have a power valve, but its also got the pv saver. I've been running a 10.5 pv.
 
Aron Gleason said:
It does have a power valve, but its also got the pv saver. I've been running a 10.5 pv.
Click to expand...
if the valve is bad when you turn the idle screws all the way in the engine will die. 10.5 pv ? stock is only 6.5 if anything with a bigger cam you need to go down like 5.5 pv on a Holley anyways.
 
gtxrt said:
if the valve is bad when you turn the idle screws all the way in the engine will die. 10.5 pv ? stock is only 6.5 if anything with a bigger cam you need to go down like 5.5 pv on a Holley anyways.
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I was told by a local tuner to put in a 10.5 pv. And I've read where the old method of determining what pv is needed is wrong.
 
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