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Replacing the front left frame rail.

Auggie56

Auggie56

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I'm replacing the left front frame rail due to heavy rot. I replaced the left inner fender three years ago. Is it possible to save that inner fender? I know I had to weld it to the old shock tower. I have a new frame, rail, shock, and tower? And the 440 stays in the car, I hope.
 
I dont see why not, Doing all that work I would pull the engine to make it easier. JMO
 
Its a big job... I did it on my 68 charger about 10 years ago now. Have a thread about it somewhere .

You have to unbolt the k Frame . It would make it incredibly difficult to do it with the engine in.
 
Engine not that hard to remove, particularly if you have a lift. Disconnect everything and then 4 k member bolts. Lift car up, engine stays down. I purchased a stand for mine but you can make one (many posts on here for that).
When I lifted my car up, there was terrible rot on the bottom of the left frame rail that I would not have seen had I not removed the engine. Moot point since you are replacing but a good chance to look at the right side.
Depending on how much rot you have, might be worth considering to use the one bought and graft on those portions that are rotten rather than replace the whole thing.
Measure everything twice before you remove. It has to go back in exact.
 
dspur said:
Engine not that hard to remove, particularly if you have a lift. Disconnect everything and then 4 k member bolts. Lift car up, engine stays down. I purchased a stand for mine but you can make one (many posts on here for that).
When I lifted my car up, there was terrible rot on the bottom of the left frame rail that I would not have seen had I not removed the engine. Moot point since you are replacing but a good chance to look at the right side.
Depending on how much rot you have, might be worth considering to use the one bought and graft on those portions that are rotten rather than replace the whole thing.
Measure everything twice before you remove. It has to go back in exact.
Click to expand...
Did you leave the K member in for a reference point?
 
The engine will 100% have to come out. The left side is even worse for clearance with the steering box, brake cylinder, wiring etc.

You need to measure everything carefully and put the chassis on a jig if possible. The radiator support stays on which helps keep everything square to a degree, but things will still move.
 
Auggie56 said:
Did you leave the K member in for a reference point?
Click to expand...
did not have to cut out the sections with the bolts nuts for the k member, but I did measure the distances from every angle just in case there was movement.
 
I used my k member for reference and also welded a piece of square tube to the tbar crossmember. Either 1 1/2 or 2”. I think 2”. But it was good to locate the back of the rail and gave me some more to weld to on the inside. (Square tube to inside of frame rail). I did both on a body cuda. I like to use a 90* laser on the floor too. Draw lines on the floor where the laser hits and label what should go where for install. If you can drill the spot welds super accurate and not mangle the inner when you do, you can do that, or use a bandfile on the old rail, but it might be a fools errand where the rail is doubled. I did mine with no floor or motor/trans.
 
I guess I also used a rolling rack I made that attaches with the bumper bolts
IMG_5367.jpeg
IMG_5399.jpeg
IMG_5361.jpeg
 
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