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T-bar install

old guys rule

old guys rule

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I have read through all the posts on T bar installing and have to say I'm more confused than ever. I have an early 60's motors manual and according to it all the prep needed is to remove uca bumper with body up on jacks and suspension in full rebound position. Then release all T bar tension. Install bar, grease etc and lower the car to the floor and adjust ride height. Posts advise several other procedures. Does anyone out there have a complete step by step mandatory procedure? Car is a 63 B.
 
That’s actually pretty correct. “Sometimes” people need an extra 1/2” clearance or something. On my last torsion bar install, I removed the upper bumpers, removed the adjuster bolts, jacked the car way up….and still needed a HUGE crescent wrench on the end of the torsion bar to get that little bit extra clearance….then they slipped in…twice (forgot the boots the first time…oof!)
 
PurpleBeeper said:
That’s actually pretty correct. “Sometimes” people need an extra 1/2” clearance or something. On my last torsion bar install, I removed the upper bumpers, removed the adjuster bolts, jacked the car way up….and still needed a HUGE crescent wrench on the end of the torsion bar to get that little bit extra clearance….then they slipped in…twice (forgot the boots the first time…oof!)
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Where did you need extra clearance? The boot part was funny though, it was like looking in the mirror LOL! No need to losen any thing else?
 
old guys rule said:
Where did you need extra clearance? The boot part was funny though, it was like looking in the mirror LOL! No need to losen any thing else?
Click to expand...
Well, the hex end wasn’t exactly (close) lined up with the hex hole….so I twisted the torsion bar slight with the crescent wrench on the hex
 
There is always a chance your shock absorbers may bottom before the LCA reaches full droop. Different brand shocks are built with different ranges of operation. Never hurts to loosen the upper nut on the stud and see if it allows a bit more drop.

I’ve also started loosening the LCA bolt to relieve tension on the bushing. But the last time I pulled one i failed to do so and the TB was not sliding right in. So I loosened the nut and it still wouldn’t slide in. It was getting late so I quit for the day, came out the next morning and it slid right in. Apparently it took some time for the bushing to completely relax its grip on the shaft.
 
AR67GTX said:
There is always a chance your shock absorbers may bottom before the LCA reaches full droop. Different brand shocks are built with different ranges of operation. Never hurts to loosen the upper nut on the stud and see if it allows a bit more drop.

I’ve also started loosening the LCA bolt to relieve tension on the bushing. But the last time I pulled one i failed to do so and the TB was not sliding right in. So I loosened the nut and it still wouldn’t slide in. It was getting late so I quit for the day, came out the next morning and it slid right in. Apparently it took some time for the bushing to completely relax its grip on the shaft.
Click to expand...
Good info.Thanks. was the bushing rubber or poly. Thanks, Dave. PS didn't need to loosen reaction bushing? Dave
 
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