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Need advice on screws for 68 b body convertible boot trim screws

C

Chad Hilburn

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Hey guys,
Hoping someone can help me with something. I am in the reassembly stage after paint of a 68 coronet five hundred convertible. When I got the car, the trim was already off the boot well area. Now that i'm assembling, I find that I don't have the proper screws to attach it. What i'm referring to is the trim, let the boot actually grabs on to, and it goes around the back lip off the car. They have some online that say they are correct, but the problem is is they are not long enough to reach the clip that's inside the trim. I've got to get it right too because if it's too long it will poke the inside of the stainless trim. Does anybody have an example of one of these screws or maybe the dimensions as well, like length and such? I'm gonna add a picture of the area. I'm talking about the screw.Goes through the body and up into a clip that's in the stainless trim.

20250825_190219.jpg
 
The ones you'll find advertised on eBay and such are not correct, or at least they weren't for my car. It's been a while but I think I used a 8-32 x 5/8 machine screw. Try that and if it doesn't work, I apologize for the wild goose chase. I looked to see if I had any spares to check, but couldn't locate them.
 
So, I read Pistol Pete's post & thought it sounded about right.. But since my 68 Coronet is all apart & I was looking at the trim a few days ago I thought I would confirm the length & thread on those screws....

My E bodies use 8/32 machine screws to secure that trim, seems logical the B body would too..

Turns out the screws aren't machine screws, the clips clearly don't have machine screw threads like the E body clips do..

The original screws from my car are #8 x 3/8" sheet metal screws...
 
I’m watching as my 68 had a mismatch set on it .. I have some but they are buried.
 
Hey guys! Thanks so much for the replys. Great info.i too came to the conclusion that these do NOT take machine screws. The clip inside the stainless does not look made for that, it looks made for a sheet metal screw. I agree. And #8 x 3/8 sounds about right. You cant go too long or you will tit nipple the stainless from underneath. Now the potmetal corners, they clearly take a machine screw and appears to be just one
 
Scince we are talking convertible b bodies, and you guys may be more familiar with the unique items, what have you guys done to reolace the sticky foam sealing material that was under the windsheild frame stainless? What felt are you using on the top frame center 2 bows that arent tack strps and move? Thanks again brothers
 
Good question because I need that too
 
Frost King 2 in. X 15 ft. L Foam Tape Insulation Mfr# FV15H - Ace Hardware

On the felt I would ask your convertible top supplier...

You didn't ask but you might want to know, the hard rubber replacement tack strips suck, the staples/nails tend to back out after the top is installed... The original dense cardboard is much better... But they don't sell it anymore... But upholstery shops do sell 1/8" thick dense backer board that is the same material as the original tack strips, just not as thick... I dig out the original to one even level (It tends to break out in sections but usually the lower layers are still good) then I cut the backer board in strips an epoxy it back in place clamping it till it cures, one layer at a time... Usually a little work each day for 3-4 days
 
1 Wild R/T said:
Frost King 2 in. X 15 ft. L Foam Tape Insulation Mfr# FV15H - Ace Hardware

On the felt I would ask your convertible top supplier...

You didn't ask but you might want to know, the hard rubber replacement tack strips suck, the staples/nails tend to back out after the top is installed... The original dense cardboard is much better... But they don't sell it anymore... But upholstery shops do sell 1/8" thick dense backer board that is the same material as the original tack strips, just not as thick... I dig out the original to one even level (It tends to break out in sections but usually the lower layers are still good) then I cut the backer board in strips an epoxy it back in place clamping it till it cures, one layer at a time... Usually a little work each day for 3-4 days
Click to expand...
Thank you! Excellent advice. My upholstery shop tells me they make their own tack strips for the exact reason you stated, that the new ones are no good. Im going to check out that frost king material. I got the feeling that the stuff the factory used was meant to squish. Good, because otherwise you probably would indent the stainless probably but whatever was there looks kind of vital cuz near, as I can tell you would hear wind, if you didn't do something
 
If i recall from 2 yrs ago when idisassembled, thats all that goes between the stainlesss trim and the window frame is it not?
 
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