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Installing new motor mount 69 B body

I made my own semi-solid mount with two taper head bolts and nuts. Drilled through the mount, countersunk the bolt heads and put the nuts on the other side. Haven't broke it yet and I beat on it.
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I used PST Polylocs and got rid of all the vibration. Installation is fairly straightforward. The driver's side can be a pain in the *** because the oil stick and its mount are in the middle.
 
I just got my 440 source mounts in the mail today. The Korean ones somebody used 20 years ago seem to be causing a vibration. They are known junk. The ones I bought were pretty cheap given today’s price of life.


That link for 440Source shows the issue with the MagMount from Mancini, the holes and welded nut are much lower on the "ears". This can be fixed, provided the nut can be welded on again without the heat damaging the rubber or its bonding to the plates. The hole on the other side would have to be elongated and the metal backfilled to close it up to match on both sides. Fabrication like this has to be done in some other aspects of the hobby, disappointing but maybe not such a big surprise as it is a hassle.

Another issue they address, the nut not being welded very well, might be the case with just two light tacks on the ones on my MagMounts. The thickness is closer to the 1.400" they show vs. 1.3175" of "theirs", but if the bolt is holding the whole engine 1/4" off the K-frame you're not going to hit the centerlink so there's that. If it works out dimensionally on a particular car, shims could take up the space between the parts.

Finally, the MagMounts also fail in the locating bump position although closer than in their image, and could be ground to clear, while the steel thickness is just under the .160" of the 440Source product at .155" which shouldn't matter at all.

I just put my Korea-made 2250 mount back on the driver's side and raced it this weekend. I'm comfortable with the torque strap handling the stresses for now.
 
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