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Gauges work, then don’t, then do

The horn works, as it always has.
The ONLY thing that never worked on this car in the 12 1/2 years we’ve had it was the key buzzer.
After getting the ignition switch and key lock installed, the buzzer worked for the first time ever.
It stopped working when the no-start(nothing) continued, like immediately after the key was turned, even before the ignition relay and NSS were changed out.
My thought is that the small black wire that was inadvertently left in the harness(that shouldn’t have been there) may have caused this issue.
If the horn works, the buzzer has power, issue is on the ground side of the buzzer circuit or the horn relay/buzzer.
Not related, leaving the small black wire on the later replacement ignition switch lead in place won’t do anything until the first time you start the car with the lights on, will then blow the dash illumination light circuit fuse. Nothing to do with key-in buzzer. You could also jump the two small red wires in the ignition switch connector, see if it buzzes with the driver’s door open. This would isolate the key-in switch itself.
 
It’s obviously not the same, but I put a new NOS made in the USA ignition switch in my 69. The gauges only work when the key is in the perfect position. Otherwise they are off. I have to position the key just right. Drove me nuts until I noticed that fact.

Even worse, the starter had a bad spot in it and would work just fine jumping at the relay. Many times. So I went over all the wires and they were good, so determined it must be the switch. Finally one day the starter won’t go off the relay, new one solved issue. Now I need to put back in the factory original switch to solve the gauges not getting juice. Ugh.
 
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