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Where to buy a water pump rebuild kit for a big block engine?

H

HEMIGTX70

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Title pretty much says it all. I want to keep my original water pump "cover". So I am asking where I can get all new bearings / seals / etc. for a big block.
 
If you're trying to keep the casting numbers correct for an engine, what Beep Beep posted looks like a good idea. Otherwise complete pumps are only $40 - $50.
 
HEMIGTX70 said:
Title pretty much says it all. I want to keep my original water pump "cover". So I am asking where I can get all new bearings / seals / etc. for a big block.
Click to expand...
Do you know HOW to install the single, unbalanced carbon vs ceramic shaft seal, without breaking the stationary seal, then pressing on the shaft bearing and finally the impeller assembly, then leak testing the assembly. I'm betting you've done ZERO rebuilds......just buy a Flowkooler pump, paint it engine color and NO ONE WILL KNOW THE DIFFERENCE........
BOB RENTON
 
If I wanted to just use an over the counter rebuild, I'd go to NAPA or Fisher's or what ever auto parts and buy one that is half the price of the Flowkooler unit. Unfortunately, I am doing a very detailed restoration. Yes judges will look at the water pump to be sure it is assembly line correct. No, I have never before rebuilt a water pump. I do not think it is rocket science. Patience goes a long way when you work with this stuff. If I screw it up, I can always try again.
 
WileE said:
Do you know if they are NOS/Mopar parts ? or aftermarket chinese parts ?
Click to expand...
Dude.... I'm pretty sure its Chinesium what isn't these days? But to answer your question... Hell if I know. He asked I found it nothing more nothing less.
 
BeepBeepRR said:
Dude.... I'm pretty sure its Chinesium what isn't these days? But to answer your question... Hell if I know. He asked I found it nothing more nothing less.
Click to expand...
I was curious since I wasn't sure if they were still actually being manufactured. I did have one, but forgot if I used it to rebuild a pump sometime over the years.
 
HEMIGTX70 said:
If I wanted to just use an over the counter rebuild, I'd go to NAPA or Fisher's or what ever auto parts and buy one that is half the price of the Flowkooler unit. Unfortunately, I am doing a very detailed restoration. Yes judges will look at the water pump to be sure it is assembly line correct. No, I have never before rebuilt a water pump. I do not think it is rocket science. Patience goes a long way when you work with this stuff. If I screw it up, I can always try again.
Click to expand...
What are the "judges" looking for the of the water pump, beside the casting number/date code. Are they physically going to remove the pump and disect it for proper assembly and components? Will the "judges" be checking piston rings types?...or bearings....not likely. How about correct diode markings on the alternator diodes, or ignition system components, windshield wiper. motor date code and type?? What is the name of the venue these judges are critiquing to this degree......of the 1000's of parts on the car, .....it looks as if you'll never achieve a 100% "numbers matching" vehicle.....unless you're bound by some personal **** retentive criteria.......just my opinion of course.......
BOB RENTON


"
 
When I was an apprentice we used to fit rebuild kits to water pumps. I remember a hydraulic press, a few flat plates and some various size pushing bushes was all that was need.
You do need to be careful of the mechanical seal.
Perhaps there are some videos on You Tube of the process?????
Older mechanics or vintage resto guys may be a source of info.
Watch out for metric "equivalent" bearings. Compare the old and new parts also for differences.
Take lots of photos and measurements particularly the impellor to the housing distance and you should be fine.
 
I was curious so I had a look on You Tube.
There are a few videos about the subject.
One was posted by TiredIronVideos and his one covers most of the issues and procedures with a few good tips.
One thing I remember now is keep the sealing faces (the ceramic white thing)of the mechanical seal real clean and no lubrication required.
 
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