Hole Repair for 1969 Charger Roof

davek said:

If its not a show car then just bondo it up. Put something inside the car roof to reinforce it. If you dont weld I would not attempt it,you will warp the roof.

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When you say put something inside the car to reinforce it are you talking something temporary that can be removed when the bond hardens or something permanent?

something permanent, Flashing could be glued to it. I feel bondo would fall out without support.

If your leaving the rusty qts and not really going to fix the body.
Hell just use some panel bond and stick a couple patches on the inside then fill the top.
If you want it to turn water you will need to use a epoxy sealer or a hardened product like sems hot rod black ect.

1967coronet said:

If your leaving the rusty qts and not really going to fix the body.
Hell just use some panel bond and stick a couple patches on the inside then fill the top.
If you want it to turn water you will need to use a epoxy sealer or a hardened product like sems hot rod black ect.

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timely subject to bring up, as my charger has a similar issue, although mine has "bubbles" under the factory top that have finally begun to leak drops of water into the interior, dripping from the edges of the upper windshield molding.
since i have had this car since 1970, and i don't know how many more birthdays i have left on this rock, my plan for a fix is this..........
i am going to remove the original top material, which is badly cracked, thus leading to trap moisture over the years, even though it has been garage kept most of it's life.
i'll then dig into the rust bubbles finding out just how bad they are.
as the car has a custom interior, including the headliner [which i will not remove] i'm just going to fill the holes with "tiger hair", knock that down, then get a "wrap" done that has the same color and pattern as the headliner.
i know this isn't the correct way to do a repair, but tough beans...........
let the next caretaker restore the car if he wants to.

moparx said:

timely subject to bring up, as my charger has a similar issue, although mine has "bubbles" under the factory top that have finally begun to leak drops of water into the interior, dripping from the edges of the upper windshield molding.
since i have had this car since 1970, and i don't know how many more birthdays i have left on this rock, my plan for a fix is this..........
i am going to remove the original top material, which is badly cracked, thus leading to trap moisture over the years, even though it has been garage kept most of it's life.
i'll then dig into the rust bubbles finding out just how bad they are.
as the car has a custom interior, including the headliner [which i will not remove] i'm just going to fill the holes with "tiger hair", knock that down, then get a "wrap" done that has the same color and pattern as the headliner.
i know this isn't the correct way to do a repair, but tough beans...........
let the next caretaker restore the car if he wants to.View attachment 1990606

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Pretty cool interior, you do not find many shops that will touch a headliner let alone build one.

1967coronet said:

Pretty cool interior, you do not find many shops that will touch a headliner let alone build one.

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thanks ! believe it or not, i did that interior myself way back in 1974. i wish i could find that headliner material today. i would do the top using that instead of a wrap.

1967coronet said:

If your leaving the rusty qts and not really going to fix the body.
Hell just use some panel bond and stick a couple patches on the inside then fill the top.
If you want it to turn water you will need to use an epoxy sealer or a hardened product like sems hot rod black ect.

Click to expand...

The rusty quarters I’m going to tackle eventually, but trying to get cab more weather tight first on a budget.

Tyron68 said:

The rusty quarters I’m going to tackle eventually, but trying to get cab more weather tight first on a budget.

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I completely understand working / starting with a budget.
For a decent priced epoxy sealer look at the ppg Omni line, #170 with
167 activator and their 186 reducer.
Orileys sells Omni products and its decent stuff to work with.

1967coronet said:

I completely understand working / starting with a budget.
For a decent priced epoxy sealer look at the ppg Omni line, #170 with
167 activator and their 186 reducer.
Orileys sells Omni products and its decent stuff to work with.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the info!