Road trip today for the Spring Fling. Met up with the Norcal gents off the 5. While I was waiting, gassed it up, put a quart of oil in, had a burger from In N Out. Took some pics while on the 166.
My daily driver 67 Coronet wagon
- Thread starter ckessel
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Scored a few goodies at the show on Saturday. Found a 9626 Carter AFB. This is from the late 70's into early 80's Carter aftermarket Mopar application 625cfm unit. At the speed shop I worked at, Vern was buying direct from Carter. Every 9625[ gm], 9626[ us] or 9627[ ford] that was sold[ 200+ over the 5 years I was there], I took the lids off and set the floats plus the pump adjustment. I also dove into every one that came back with issues. Every issue was debris in the unit, which was not a warrantable claim. Needless to say I'm very familiar with them. $50 for it, will get a kit for it down the road and swap places with the 3310[ 780cfm] Holley which is on it now. Found 4 of the 5/16" bolts for my timing cover which are MIA. Got some header gaskets from Glendora. A pair of the steering coupler seal clips, round wire ones, from McKellars. Got a show tee shirt too.
On the ARP head bolt package, I did a head count earlier to verify bolt and washer quantities. 34 each. Thanks for that @qkcuda.
On the ARP head bolt package, I did a head count earlier to verify bolt and washer quantities. 34 each. Thanks for that @qkcuda.
Fortunately the machine shop had an extra washer available, so I got mine buttoned up.
My trans rebuild pieces came in today from Mancini. Gasket/seal package, friction package, bands, 4.2 KD lever, billet strut, front and rear bushings. Already have my Amsoil Super Shift, which is their type F fluid. Fan shroud is about two weeks out.
My FlowKooler water pump and Robert Shaw t-stat arrived today. Next week sometime I'll get my fuel pump[ E-Booger], engine mounts[ 440 Source] and torque strap[ 440 Source]. That should complete the small items. From there, make more dough so I can get the heads, 60825 Ede's, and have some pushrods made.
I figured out my theoretical compression ratio today. 9.32:1. With the heads I plan on running, 60825 Eddy's, I most likely will be able to run 87 regular instead of Cal 91 premium. But that will depend on the cylinder pressure thats dictated by the cam events/specs. News as it happens. Since I've been seeing some discussion about distributor shaft engagement to the pump drive, I checked my new E-Booger unit to see how it looks. It's like a 1/2" short. Checked the new 440 Source drive against the old one. Source one is about .035 shallower, so thats not the issue. Just heard back from the E man on my email. My unit is for a b motor, not rb. Will send it back next month. Glad I checked this now! Another thing I verified is that my timing tab and new balancer jive on 0. Mission accomplished there.
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The gains from the higher compression we sometimes run is offset by the potential frustration we may see when looking at the costs of running the 91 octane or higher premium fuel ALL THE TIME.
In the past when I've dealt with detonation, I was married to the high octane stuff. Yeah, the car ran strong but I was told that the amount of timing that I had to limit myself to was costing power. The arrangement of 91 octane to avoid knocking along with limiting myself to 31 degrees was not optimal. Lowering the compression by a point allowed me to run the advance to 35 which in theory, made more power while being less likely to detonate. I've read that a point in compression can be worth 4% of power. (all else being equal) The additional timing more than made up for that.
The 2 big blocks that I have here...the 383 in Jigsaw and 440/495 in the red car both have narrowed advance curves so I can run a LOT more initial timing than a stock engine while topping out at 35. The 383 is 9.3 to 1, the 440/495 is 9.8. Neither engine detonates on 91 and the 495 has been ran on 89 without knocking too. It sure is liberating to know that you can run the cheaper gas. Sometimes on road trips you may stop at a station that has no "premium" fuel or they sold out of it and are waiting for another shipment. I've actually had this happen twice.
People have been saying for years that aluminum heads are more tolerant of higher compression and that due to their materials, engines with otherwise identical iron heads make slightly more power. I find that interesting. I interpret that to mean that retaining heat makes more power to a point, that point being detonation.
In the past when I've dealt with detonation, I was married to the high octane stuff. Yeah, the car ran strong but I was told that the amount of timing that I had to limit myself to was costing power. The arrangement of 91 octane to avoid knocking along with limiting myself to 31 degrees was not optimal. Lowering the compression by a point allowed me to run the advance to 35 which in theory, made more power while being less likely to detonate. I've read that a point in compression can be worth 4% of power. (all else being equal) The additional timing more than made up for that.
The 2 big blocks that I have here...the 383 in Jigsaw and 440/495 in the red car both have narrowed advance curves so I can run a LOT more initial timing than a stock engine while topping out at 35. The 383 is 9.3 to 1, the 440/495 is 9.8. Neither engine detonates on 91 and the 495 has been ran on 89 without knocking too. It sure is liberating to know that you can run the cheaper gas. Sometimes on road trips you may stop at a station that has no "premium" fuel or they sold out of it and are waiting for another shipment. I've actually had this happen twice.
People have been saying for years that aluminum heads are more tolerant of higher compression and that due to their materials, engines with otherwise identical iron heads make slightly more power. I find that interesting. I interpret that to mean that retaining heat makes more power to a point, that point being detonation.
When the time comes, I'll light it off on 91, do the break in etc. After thats done and I do my first oil change, I'll try the regular out. With it being fresh, there'll be more friction/heat being developed which means more temp in the chamber too.
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Pretty cool build thread, I'm on page 4 just finishing now...
finish reading the rest later, good thread
finish reading the rest later, good thread
Thank you, kind sir!
mpgmike
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I'm going to wander into major controversial territory here. A trick I learned about 20 years ago is to carve a Somender Singh groove or 2 into the squish pad (open chamber heads won't have this). It adds swirl inside the combustion chamber just prior to the combustion event, reducing detonation tendencies. You can do a search on it and see what "users" have to say about it. I've added them to numerous heads and a few complete engine builds I've done -- including my high compression Jeep 4.6 stroker based on the 4.0 block and AMC 258 crank.
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Some more items showed up for the swap.
I cleaned the rust off of the breather cap, washed it down, put it back together minus the synthetic filter material that was inside[ it has two sets of baffles inside already], then whipped out the TIG and welded the edges together. Paint it tomorrow.
Today was a good day. My 0 compression issue has been resolved! While I was waiting for the heads to arrive, I prepped up the head bolts/washers with the supplied ARP lube. I got my homemade adjustable pushrod out to get it cleaned off for use since I need to have pushrods made. I made that back in the mid 80's as I put together a W2 headed 340. No off the shelf push rods back then for that combo. Bought a DC semi finished package. I measured the Isky adjuster screw ball, 5/16" there so good. Cup on the pushrod is the same. Good. Ball on the lifter end looked off. 3/8". Not good. Took a piece off one of the stockers, cut off the 3/8' unit, SilBrazed the 5/16" solid stocker. Good to go there now. Put one head on, put a pair of rockers with one spring on a shaft, got it in place. Rocker tips not aligned. I think what I'm going to do is take the flipped up tabs off the oe hold down units to get the rockers aligned to the valve tips. Will work on those tomorrow.
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Them ISKY’s are a thing of beauty!!
Nice setup!!
And thanks to you, I have them!
I'm guessing, but don't have a way to verify with an old iron head, that there is a difference in the spacing/orientation of the valves between the Eddy's and iron, due to valve head size difference which would explain why the tips don't line up with the pads. One of tomorrows tasks will be to shave the tabs off two of the hold down clamps to see what I end up with. I'm thinking that should work plus give me more load contact surface between the rockers and clamps. The heads came with some shims, so once I'm good to go I'll put one on each side of the rockers. When I have one cylinder done, I can get my length info so I can order up some pushrods.
I'm guessing, but don't have a way to verify with an old iron head, that there is a difference in the spacing/orientation of the valves between the Eddy's and iron, due to valve head size difference which would explain why the tips don't line up with the pads. One of tomorrows tasks will be to shave the tabs off two of the hold down clamps to see what I end up with. I'm thinking that should work plus give me more load contact surface between the rockers and clamps. The heads came with some shims, so once I'm good to go I'll put one on each side of the rockers. When I have one cylinder done, I can get my length info so I can order up some pushrods.
Success on shaving the tabs! Once that was done, I did my pushrod measurement. Called Manton, placed the order after giving the rep the required specs. Should have them next Wednesday.
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What if the original application of those rocker arms used different hold down tabs without the ears on them?
Thats a possibility. I looked through my old 70's era SA Design Mopar Engine book to see what showed. The only shots of a b/rb with ductile arms is having the shaft stands milled off the heads and aluminum blocks being used for the hold downs. Thats how my W2 engine was too. Anyway, mission accomplished there. Heads are on and torqued. I'm going to scribe the outline of the valley pan tomorrow, on the heads, so I can prep for paint. Get it cleaned off, mask areas off etc, paint. I'll be able to do what's in the picture, vc's[ steel ones], balancer and water pump. The intake, wp housing, engine brackets etc, I'll do once it's out. I got a fresh load of ZEP purple cleaner to soak the intake in after I wash it off in the solvent tank. Need to get as much oil etc out before painting.
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