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Bummer!

I think I found the problem @Dave6T4 . It's right there. Want me to circle it? :thumbsup: :lol:

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I may have a dash harness in a 67 Plymouth in the back 40. Not sure if it the same or not.

Let me know if you need anything ole boy.
Thanks, Wade. I haven't gotten into this yet, to see what I need. I think some of the connectors are different.
 
That's so nice of you to offer him a harness, not trying to be mean but another 50-year-old harness, it would be better off getting a replacement one made or making your own. Follow the factory wiring diagram it's not that hard for these old cars you just have to have patience the right crimping tools the correct connectors, and a soldering iron
Mr. Hudson was kind enough to help us with another '62 Dart harness when my buddy's harness burned up. With it and another incomplete spare, we made a complete workable harness that got the Dart back on the road. I imagine that a new repro harness for my car would be over $1000.00, delivered here in Ontario.
 
Thanks, Wade. I haven't gotten into this yet, to see what I need. I think some of the connectors are different.
I will check with a friend who may have some 66-67 Dodge stuff but I don't think that he has a harness.

Does your car have A/C ?
 
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I hate electrical issues, worse than rust. I've replaced every harness in all the nice and valuable cars I've had.
 
Im sorry to hear this, glad the car didnt burn up, A friend lost his car and trailer last year over wiring.
 
Glad to hear the fuseable link did its job and the only damage is to the wiring. Best you walk away for awhile. When your ready replace the wiring. I think a new repo harness from M&H is the way to go. But If you need I have a 67 Coronet 4 door parts car I can pull the harness out of if you need. Not sure of the condition. But it is a 318 non a/c car. Just PM me if you want me to take a better look at the harness.
 
Glad to hear the fuseable link did its job and the only damage is to the wiring. Best you walk away for awhile. When your ready replace the wiring. I think a new repo harness from M&H is the way to go. But If you need I have a 67 Coronet 4 door parts car I can pull the harness out of if you need. Not sure of the condition. But it is a 318 non a/c car. Just PM me if you want me to take a better look at the harness.
I'm not sure what I'm doing yet. Like you suggested, I am just walking away for a while. I still have to pull my harness to see extent of damage. Thanks for your offer.
Dave
 
The ironic thing is Chrysler Corporation knew the bulkhead connector was a high resistance connection from new. On the police package cars of the day they had a separate through the firewall wire to the amp gauge from the alternator. It had a rubber grommet in the area to go through the firewall. You can do this yourself. Run a secondary wire to the amp gauge or main dash splice. You can leave the original in place as the secondary wire will carry the main current if the bulkhead connection is resistant.
 
The '62's and '63's actually had a buss bar that ran through the bulkhead connector, that the wires screwed to. It was a much better setup, but was eliminated in passenger cars, 1964 and onward.
 
The '62's and '63's actually had a buss bar that ran through the bulkhead connector, that the wires screwed to. It was a much better setup, but was eliminated in passenger cars, 1964 and onward.
Anything to speed up the assembly line…
 
The ironic thing is Chrysler Corporation knew the bulkhead connector was a high resistance connection from new. On the police package cars of the day they had a separate through the firewall wire to the amp gauge from the alternator. It had a rubber grommet in the area to go through the firewall. You can do this yourself. Run a secondary wire to the amp gauge or main dash splice. You can leave the original in place as the secondary wire will carry the main current if the bulkhead connection is resistant.
Yes, I did this on my 1964 Polara, when I added A/C. I also increased size of the wires.
 
I am trying to stay positive about this.
I am positive I'm pi$$ed about this.
LOL
I don't blame you. I took the bulkhead connectors apart on my 66 Dart 15 years ago and cleaned every terminal. They looks like new. Sell the car and the new owner took them apart and found corrosion and the like. I rarely washed the car and it was always kept in an insulated garage. At any time the corrosion could cause what you experienced. I think the direct wire through the connecter would be a plus.
 
Well I hope there is not to much damage. Sometimes its best to walk away. Ive had to on my 70 charger, cracked block,wrong back seat. It takes the wind out of you. If it was easy everyone would be doing it. Hope its an easy fix for you.
 
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