Thanks, Wade. I haven't gotten into this yet, to see what I need. I think some of the connectors are different.I may have a dash harness in a 67 Plymouth in the back 40. Not sure if it the same or not.
Let me know if you need anything ole boy.
Mr. Hudson was kind enough to help us with another '62 Dart harness when my buddy's harness burned up. With it and another incomplete spare, we made a complete workable harness that got the Dart back on the road. I imagine that a new repro harness for my car would be over $1000.00, delivered here in Ontario.That's so nice of you to offer him a harness, not trying to be mean but another 50-year-old harness, it would be better off getting a replacement one made or making your own. Follow the factory wiring diagram it's not that hard for these old cars you just have to have patience the right crimping tools the correct connectors, and a soldering iron
I will check with a friend who may have some 66-67 Dodge stuff but I don't think that he has a harness.Thanks, Wade. I haven't gotten into this yet, to see what I need. I think some of the connectors are different.
No A/C.I will check with a friend who may have some 66-67 Dodge stuff but I don't think that he has a harness.
Does your car have A/C ?
He passed away a few months back now.![]()
it sucks, but it could suck a whole lot more
I'm not sure what I'm doing yet. Like you suggested, I am just walking away for a while. I still have to pull my harness to see extent of damage. Thanks for your offer.Glad to hear the fuseable link did its job and the only damage is to the wiring. Best you walk away for awhile. When your ready replace the wiring. I think a new repo harness from M&H is the way to go. But If you need I have a 67 Coronet 4 door parts car I can pull the harness out of if you need. Not sure of the condition. But it is a 318 non a/c car. Just PM me if you want me to take a better look at the harness.
Anything to speed up the assembly line…The '62's and '63's actually had a buss bar that ran through the bulkhead connector, that the wires screwed to. It was a much better setup, but was eliminated in passenger cars, 1964 and onward.
Yes, I did this on my 1964 Polara, when I added A/C. I also increased size of the wires.The ironic thing is Chrysler Corporation knew the bulkhead connector was a high resistance connection from new. On the police package cars of the day they had a separate through the firewall wire to the amp gauge from the alternator. It had a rubber grommet in the area to go through the firewall. You can do this yourself. Run a secondary wire to the amp gauge or main dash splice. You can leave the original in place as the secondary wire will carry the main current if the bulkhead connection is resistant.
One word there .... POTS.I think I found the problem @Dave6T4 . It's right there. Want me to circle it?![]()
View attachment 2050472

Thanks, Mike. I think that guy wired my old house! LOL.I think I found the problem @Dave6T4 . It's right there. Want me to circle it?![]()
View attachment 2050472
I don't blame you. I took the bulkhead connectors apart on my 66 Dart 15 years ago and cleaned every terminal. They looks like new. Sell the car and the new owner took them apart and found corrosion and the like. I rarely washed the car and it was always kept in an insulated garage. At any time the corrosion could cause what you experienced. I think the direct wire through the connecter would be a plus.I am trying to stay positive about this.
I am positive I'm pi$$ed about this.
LOL