Check for bolt head clearance on your water pump pulley before you button everything up.
My daily driver 67 Coronet wagon
- Thread starter ckessel
- Start date
Will do. Thanks for the heads up.
qkcuda, thanks for the heads up. Yes they hit, so I put the button head units back in.
Did some more parts washing today. Popped a hole in the left lower core support area for trans cooler hoses to pass through. Rinsed out the coolant overflow container, then put some purple cleaner in with water. Will dump and rinse that out tomorrow. Prepped some brackets and spacers for paint. Shot some paint on them. Will do the p/s brackets tomorrow. On another thread, a gent was talking about lift points with Edelbrock heads, so I made some lift brackets. The short, angled ones need a redo, too short to allow for the chain with bolts. Tomorrow on those too.
Did some more parts washing today. Popped a hole in the left lower core support area for trans cooler hoses to pass through. Rinsed out the coolant overflow container, then put some purple cleaner in with water. Will dump and rinse that out tomorrow. Prepped some brackets and spacers for paint. Shot some paint on them. Will do the p/s brackets tomorrow. On another thread, a gent was talking about lift points with Edelbrock heads, so I made some lift brackets. The short, angled ones need a redo, too short to allow for the chain with bolts. Tomorrow on those too.
Redid the angled brackets today. Just cut some material and extended them. Good to go now. Put my cast covers on. Got the PCV system hoses set. I'm going to keep the PCV hose separate by a large amount from the brake booster line. Had them on a tee before but with the blow by the engine was producing, I noticed oil in the booster hose when I disconnected them both. Now the booster will be on the carb and the PCV will be in the manifold where an EGR valve would go. Put the accelerator cable/kick down unit on the manifold to check clearance. The base of the filter was going to hit the KD adjuster so I shortened it, I had the adjustment fully to the rear before anyway, plus gave it a radius. Clears the base now. Cleaned the gasket remains off the headers. I neglected to mark on the lh collector where to put the AFR bung. I'll do that when reassembly happens so I don't flub up. When the engine came out, I noticed a trail of coolant, off the heater core fittings, on the firewall. Could be just loose spring clamps, could be dud core etc. In the future I plan on putting a/c in, so I'm not going to waste money now replacing the core only to change all down the road. Therefore, the pump housing holes are plugged.
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What is that red car in the background? It looks like one I saw on a book cover.
This one? The one on back burner for awhile?
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A while?
You started the thread on it 10 years ago next month!
You started the thread on it 10 years ago next month!
Yup.
Did some more tasks on the wagon. The right outer brake pad was loose causing noise when driving. Took it off, gave it some beating till the fit was better, back on. Wiped down the k-frame, washed the starter off, put the headers behind the rear wheels so they can be had when needed, trans mount with fasteners sitting on the ramp ready for use, vacuumed the floor under the car. My external trans cooler came in. Got it set on the radiator. Went through the fastener pile and pulled out the ones not being re-used.
More work accomplished today. One task was installing the AFR gauge and wiring. The bracket supplied with the gauge is setup for either a plastic panel or cast gauge pod as it was loose with the fasteners tightened up. Put a distributor o-ring on the back and good to go now.
My trans compadre let me know he should have it done by Saturday. It's apart and looks fine inside from what he said. Going to take it to his new work, trans shop, to clean components up. I remembered I had ordered a sheet of rubber for the inner fender access ports. Made up the replacement units earlier.
Where did you get the rubber from and what thickness is it?
1/8", got it on Amazon. Neoprene. The original stuff has fiber reinforcement in it, didn't bother me to not have that.
My trans should be done tomorrow sometime. Today I did a mod on the engine tilter. When I had the engine nose high and trans low, the crank would bump the picker boom making adjustment a pain. So I cut the handle off and welded a nut on. Now I can use a 3/4" GearWrench ratcheting wrench on it.
Good news, bad news, good news.
Trans is done, brought it home.
Converter was coming apart, Armon found debris in the pan.
I didn't really like that unit, Hughes 24-20, for the wagon and wanted a tighter/more efficient/lower stall unit anyway. He'll order one up for me from where he works at now, trans shop.
In the meantime, I'll put the trans on the engine, load the starter on and get lines bent up while waiting for a converter.
Trans is done, brought it home.
Converter was coming apart, Armon found debris in the pan.
I didn't really like that unit, Hughes 24-20, for the wagon and wanted a tighter/more efficient/lower stall unit anyway. He'll order one up for me from where he works at now, trans shop.
In the meantime, I'll put the trans on the engine, load the starter on and get lines bent up while waiting for a converter.
Got the two units mated up today. Went to put the starter in but could not get the top bolt in. Saw a spot on the starter rear casting that looked shiny, so I put a little Dykem on it. Put it back in and it was hitting the block. Bit of a difference in the block casting in that area. So...out came the Vixen file. Shaved a little off and now it fits. Put the lh header on, put some of the throttle pressure linkage on so I could make up my cooler lines. Got those made. Squirted them out with Brakleen and followed that up with compressed air. I noticed the picker jack bleeds down so I put my tall screw jack under the boom with just a touch of pressure from the hydraulic jack. This way when it bleeds down, I shouldn't have a surprise in the morning with the engine/trans laying on the floor or worse.
My converter showed up today. I ended up ordering another 24-20 due to time frame. I'm holding a paying job out until I get the wagon going. I was hoping to get one of the 10.75" units, like on the 440-6/426, which Dacco shows a number for, 764, but I'm way leery of the units cost. It's cheap at $150 or so from different outlets, but I seriously question how good of a rebuilding job got done on the unit for the money. Since I'm in the trans for $900 parts/labor, I don't want to kill it with a sketchy converter. Hughes has two other ones I was looking at with lower stall and a better percentage of efficiency, but they were a month out. When I talked to the Hughes tech awhile back, he actually recommended the 24-20, so I just got a new one. I can always swap out later when I find a good 10.75" core to get redone. Anyway, unit is in. Before install, I checked the pilot size to the crank, good there. Marked the flex plate when I got the four holes lined up, used my pink nail polish. Put some atf in the unit, put some antisieze in the crank hole, got the unit set into the trans, then bolt it to the engine. Tomorrow my fill tube seal sleeve will be here. Once thats in place, I'm ready to stab it in the hole. I already put some protection on the k-frame and center link for paint damage, used a couple of old t-shirts. Wrapped a piece of plastic on the upper tie bar for protection. Put a trail of cardboard under the car so I or a friend can slide under the car to set the trans mount in place.
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Rich H.
Well-Known Member
This is really looking sweet.
It almost looks like something could be externally plumbed into the EGR ports, but also looks like...maybe that is what was handy, just to plug the holes for the time being.
It almost looks like something could be externally plumbed into the EGR ports, but also looks like...maybe that is what was handy, just to plug the holes for the time being.
Like that Greg? I wanted something that would show up on black or other dark surfaces for marking. I went to the dollar store and grabbed the pink polish. Works fine. I promise I won't use it up for car stuff and save you some for your next Manny/pedi appointment.
Rich, I took out the pressed in well plugs on that EGR pad and found the holes would tap out to 3/8" pipe. A little loose though, but I put thread sealant on the fittings and holes.
Rich, I took out the pressed in well plugs on that EGR pad and found the holes would tap out to 3/8" pipe. A little loose though, but I put thread sealant on the fittings and holes.
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