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I'm a believer in the classic 451. If you have a good machinist resource? The advantage of having one in the know cut down a forged 440 crank is they can balance as its machined. Buying one you are assuming its right. Again, it's about the machinist. I matched mine with Ross 4 375 bore 99494...
I agree. I would freshen up. Rings, bearings. Valve job. If you're going to gamble? Gamble with the supercharger. If it's long in the tooth? it will just push lower boost. If hurt? That's another story.
Not sure about that. The RB block short coming it's under stroked for its deck height. I've seen plenty 500+ ci that run strong for years.
I have a B-block in an A-body with 440 crank to a classic 451. On pump gas. Ran up against 2 hellcats at the strip's test & tune. Once amber came on? Never...
I have the car for something like that. A '69 GTX. Very good driver shape car that's not close to numbers matching. Bought car 5 years back because of that. And of course at a non matching price. The guy who did this car passed away now coming up to 20 years ago. So any trail is cold. In fact...
I would offer $4.5k. If engine has damage as expected. Or long in the tooth. You can recover much your cost piecing the engine out. Unless there is major damage. But pics suggest not. At least no hole in the block. Or a rod kicked out.
The worse the guy says is no?
The Gen III is still a small block. And small blocks have no business in a GTX. You want a hemi? Get a real one. Gen II. Yes you are going to pay twice as much. But money is evil. And can only be cleansed by ringing thru something pure. Like a GTX with a RB hemi.
JMHO.
I had an opportunity to put a 6.4 into my 'GTX that is not even close to numbers matching. But my decision was easier being it meant pulling a period correct 440 (that I'm guessing is making 400-425 HP) that runs very well. With the knowledge that I'm capable of screwing up something that didn't...
I have a Centerforce with the 18 spline trans. And yes, once center spring removed it has the funky pedal. You can add an outer spring. But that does add some harder pedal.
I like the performance. But not crazy about the pedal. It also messes with my neutral safety switch. I'm sure there is a...
The point of the post is an example for today's "Experts" That numbers matching is much more important than it was back in the day. Some are obsessed with that mission.
I have had discussions in the past on this issue. Some even heated. That this mission has somehow clouded the very essence of...
A 440 pulled from '69 GTX that has '69 Superbee 383 stamping. Same for 727 trans. But with same production numbers as vehicle VIN. The engine is clearly a 440. And no indication that it's not the original engine of the GTX. I've seen a single digit error. But this? I'm guessing someone screwed...
Is a taller gear necessarily best for highway use? Especially with automatic transmission?
I'm not sure cruising a couple hundred Rs under stall speed is ideal? Let alone the ideal RPM for a muscle car era engine build.
Yes, it will save some gas. But your engine may not necessarily agree...
Ok. I'm dying to ask. The gearset for 3 Dana cars including present GTX are/were stamped 3.54. My 4 cars with 8 3/4" were not 3.55.
Is 3.54 for Dana and 3.55 for 8 3/4?
Just one of those things I've never asked over the years. Lol.
I recommend to use the smallest carb that can still provide the CFMs your engine asks. With some head work to get her breathing better with an upgraded cam for a little more performance? The 600 is likely a little small. I run a Holley 750 with a similar build you are suggesting.
Bigger is not...
I've heard plenty success stories of the Passon A855. And a few not. With some Q&A concerns. But that trend seemed to be on later dated production # Which leads me to believe they may have tried to stretch their tooling too Long? To be clear I have no evidence or even heard evidence of that...