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No, it only eliminates the ammeter. The remaining gauges get signal from the other wires in the harness.

Yes, you can join them and bypass the ammeter. Use a bolt. Seal, tape them up really well. I then also run another wire outside direct from the alternator to the battery lead to remove the majority of power running through those wires inside. It will take the easiest / shortest path. The loose...

I had a coil that would fail once the engine got hot enough. But it would not start again for at least the 20 minutes. No 2 minute run at all.

When I installed a 67 floor shift column into my 66 column shift car, I believe the wiring was different and I had to re-pin the connector at the bottom of the column to match. But I'm not sure how that could do what you are describing.

Unless you are talking two stroke plugs for a bike! Those are not all "Cheap". Many plugs are cleanable for the most part. Very seldom do they "wear out" in daily driver situations.

I believe once you do the bypass, the main current will take the easiest path to the battery....not sending all the juice through the ammeter. But you can still remove it from the system.

The restorer should have clarified to the client that the end result would be rebuilt and fully functional but ugly. If indeed it has been rebuilt.

:(

Here is one of mine that surely would have failed horribly.

^^^^1004 bulbs is what my 66 has and the ground wire was pinched so continuous ground kept the lights on. I ordered LEDS today! Hopefully they work.

I just traced a short in my interior lights to a wire I pinched during assembly. They were powered up constantly. Found the short at the sail panel trim on my 66 Coronet. Pinched inside with the speed nut!

It is not necessary!

I will look at mine tomorrow. I'm sure that's how it works. Like I said, my car never had the newer trans and so I think when I installed it, I was lead to use the 3 wire switch for lights.

Ah, I think the other two wires are reverse lights. So your brown should be it. It's been a while, but I'm looking at a schematic right now.

I am not sure. I would have to look at my car tomorrow (1966 Coronet). I had to wire mine in as I installed a console with a newer trans. You are on the right path. The switch is likely toast. It should have 3 wires on it. There was a 1 wire switch, but I think it was 67 and back or so.

I'm going to guess that somebody fabricated that in there as the switch might have failed. Disconnect and see if it starts. It shouldn't. Then hook it up and disconnect the black from ground. If it starts properly, the black was redundant. If it doesn't start, the switch is toast. That's my guess.

I don't think my 69 has a neutral safety switch on it.

Are you sure that spade isn't actually ripped off the other side of whatever it attaches to? It sure has a square shape to it and I haven't seen anything "bolt" on that is that small. Doesn't the wiper switch have a multi plug and a single or two?

If he cut that close, can you just get the new "clips" and then reinstall them in the plug? With enough patience and effort, you can remove the originals. But it is a pain. Oh, and enjoy Bullwinkle!

On my fuse box, the lights / inst cluster are at the very end of the row. I hooked my gauge lights into the back of the fuse box. It controls the circuit and dims them with the controller. There are male spade connectors there on various fuses for auxiliary power. Not sure what years or if yours...