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Why not put a socket on the crank bolt?

Pedals, and probably another 20 minor things that all add up, speedometer cables, gears etc. There's a few ways of doing it, the cheaper way scrounging around junkyards or online for used parts, and the expensive way getting all new parts from Brewers. Or getting a Tremec TKX kit from...

Buy some tools. Start with a vacuum gauge and a timing light.

Well I would hope that the carb was at least assembled in Bowling Green Kentucky but I pulled it apart, checked it and re-assembled myself anyway. There were no issues.

Wouldn't the OP be better off with something that can still be bought new, is a simple design and parts are available from the local store? It's his first engine build after all.

I can't help with the motor specs but I can say the Holley 650 D/P is the best carb I've had on my similar cubic inch poly stroker. Better than a Holley 600 Vac Sec and better than an Edelbrock 650 AVS2.

When my 354 Poly (318 with a 3.48" crank) went on the chassis dyno the dyno operator reckoned the factory 4 barrel cast iron intake manifold was holding it back. After consulting with poly guru Gary Pavlovich, I was advised to open up the 4 hole plenum to a divided opening, and port the runners...

As long as the lobes don't go flatt...

Forged Steel.

I've been pre-filling the filters for 30+ years, don't see any reason not to and commonsense says it's gotta be better than running the engine potentially with no oil for even a few seconds. On my daily driver it's vertical so easy to do, the small block poly it's on an angle but still able to...

This is potentially the worst $300 you've ever spent...we'll see. BUT, as a learning exercise it may be invaluable. Mechanical skills, what to look for in future (like turning the engine over by hand before parting with cash) etc. Good luck, I hope it all works out.

Thanks Geoff, but I think I'll stick with the factory iron. The weight saving and presumably better flow sound attractive, but the cost and hassle of removal/re-installation less so.

Already has one. The dyno operator played with spacers too, didn't make any difference, that's why he suggested the intake was the restriction. He races a 600hp Mustang around the different tracks in Australia and knows his stuff. Gary Pavlovich and other people well versed in the poly engine...

I'm in the process of porting my 4 barrel factory intake right now. I've been meaning to do it for about 2 years, since the car went on the chassis dyno and the dyno operator reckoned the intake was a big restriction. Gary Pavlovich sent me the following pictures so I'm having a crack. I'm very...

Where does the coolant go, or is that a dumb question?

The seals are new as are the guides, valves, pistons, crank, rods etc (4 years old). I'm assuming a defective part. Rockers slide to the side once the adjuster is backed off, the shaft is held in by the head bolts so that stays in place.

Ok sounds like it's nothing too serious. I'll start with the valve seals and see how I go. I've got a compressor, just need to buy a fitting and a valve spring compressor. I watched a few videos on youtube last night, seems straightforward.to change them. I've thought about the intake before as...

I'll check but there's no sign of a misfire when driving.

I did a compression test today on my poly. Nothing much wrong with the engine in terms of driving, runs fine, but one plug at the back of the engine always fouls up, crusty oil deposits (cylinder 7). It's done it for ages, I just take the plug out and clean it up periodically and put it back in...