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You know, that's the first thing I look for when I talk to the 70-year old owners of these cars, 'you didn't bypass the factory ammeter did you!?' :eek:
Exactly as posted above, it's a host of conditions that will create the environment where the amp draw causes these to melt or (worst case...
Bypass the Ammeter inside the car (which is a fire waiting to happen).
This link will provide all the information you need;
http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml
If you have a weak or dead battery, just recharge it completely (with a physical battery charger) rather than...
This is why I always go with internally regulated units and lower amperage, such as the Denso 65-amp setups from AR Engineering. You really don't need a large amperage alternator on these cars, especially with mechanical fuel pumps and clutch fans. Solves a lot of these small, but time...
No sir, that distributor will work fine.
I would recommend a weatherproof / locking 2-pin terminal connector, heat shrink, & heat shrink butt connectors...
Yes, he should be able to. All that 12-volt switched power wire (key-on for most) cares about is if it has 12-volts. MSD just doesn't want owners to provide a source that doesn't have voltage while cranking, the ignition box is 'dumb', it has no idea the car is cranking until it gets a signal...
Hank, let us know how the troubleshooting goes. Should only take a few minutes to re-trace the harness from the CD ignition box to the Distributor. If that checks out, I would move onto the Distributor.
Probably your issue, I have a 6530. That is the trigger signal from the distributor. Give me a second, and verify in the 6425 manual. Without this connection, the MSD CD ignition box has no idea the engine is even turning over.
Page (7), top of page...
Hankohop,
I've ran MSD ignition systems for over a decade.
Like Coloradodave mentioned, the setup is the same for nearly all of them. Two heavy power leads, one (+) to battery positive and another (-) to battery negative. One switched (12-volt) source (to power on the unit in basic terms...
MSD is super simple to get working —- you have coil connector (+|-), distributor connector, two main battery positive/negative leads (which should be ran directly to the battery), and one switched 12V source (which must have power under cranking, which in simple terms, it tells the CD ignition...
Andy hate to say it but my Hyperspark experience was terrible, spent an entire month with a non-running car. Re-wired the power circuit with 1/0 AWG to pull 10.2-10.5V during cranking. Verified timing changes during cranking (had to buy a different timing light), verified the Hyperspark...
Going to test this afternoon, running the coil wires (as they've been extended w/ 14 awg) from the Sniper EFI ignition box -> routed outside of the car to the coil. I would assume that would be the bulk of possible interference, right now it's routed with the other EFI related wires without...
Thanks Andy,
Timing light works fine once the engine is running, won't operate spinning the engine over like the manual states is required to verify timing.
Currently has Accel 416S plugs and MSD 8.5mm wires, less than a few hundred miles on them, plugs are new, they worked fine with the...
...that were required and double check everything for the third time to maintain sanity. We’ll check to verify if the rotor is pointed directly at the #1 terminal at 30* BTDC. Digital timing light won’t work while just spinning the engine over without fuel, so going to pick up another one.
...where the #1 spark plug is located. Install cap and spark plug wires, update the firmware, and you're ready to fire it up (according to video).
**** REALITY ****
Now, disconnect the fuel pump power, loosen up the distributor hold down, with a friend, grab a timing light, spin the engine...
Okay, great, the Holley forum gave me a bit more info, it looks fairly simple to adjust for idle, cruise, and WOT on the timing table (through the software). I have the Holley EFI software, special interface cable, and a dedicated Windows 10 tablet setup already. Just haven't found a need to...
...parameters did you change to enable the cruise timing advance via the Holley EFI software. My engine is setup pretty much the same way, around 20* initial & 32-34* advance, all in around 2,500 RPM. Is it something you can setup in the softwares timing table, I haven't touched its timing...
Yes, it makes it a lot more user friendly when everything can be programmed from one interface. Mainly wanted the new hall-effect distributor, that should provide the best potential for improvement.