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This is a pretty good video. The guy cleans things nicely and packs them by hand.
Ah, see the discoloration on those rollers? It has been run hot. It will probably be ok to reuse. I rarely replace bearings and races. only as needed. Always when the races have chatter marks or the rollers...
Probably new ones aren't needed. Take them apart for inspection. Clean them if needed, inspect, and replace as needed. May be they only need repacked, may be just adjusted. I'm sure there's some endplay spec in the service manual. In 50+ years I have never measured and have never had an issue...
Without any photos, you probably need a new set of rear springs. Call ESPO and put your order in. THey are a few months behind on filling orders. Air shocks and spring type overloads are just band aids for 50+ saggy old original springs. Longer shackles too.
4a- Start bleeding furthest from the master cylinder first. RR, LR, RF, LF. A spongy pedal is usually air in the system. Does the pedal improve if you pump it a couple times? If so, it's air.
Thinking about that, you can adjust the driver's side just a tic higher to make up for driver weight. Have someone your weight sit behind the wheel while you adjust. If you want to get things down to the gnat's azz.
Get it close and drive it slowly to get it aligned or just have it towed if you can't zero it close enough to drive a mile or to. The alignment shop will straighten it out if it is off.
With the wheel centered, you need to shorten one tie rod assembly and lengthen the other side. You will need to figure out which way to go by how the tires are pointed. Recheck the toe in when you are done. This is how the alignment shops center steering wheels.
Old and new drums do the same? The thing you changed was the shoes? Wrong shoes. Regardless of the dimension. Like I said. with the lug nuts loose, spin the drums. Do they spin? Snug up the nuts a bit. Do the drums still turn? Keep tightening a little at a time until there is a rubbing noise.It...