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Post #29, the top pic. I can see that the ported vac adv port is exposed in the pass side throttle bore. Is the pri t/shaft seated against the idle stop screw? If so, that is the problem. And the usual reason for this is a big-ger cam has been fitted & the idle ign timing & carb have not been...

The longer spring will only cause enrichment at a lower vacuum level.....& will require more idle vacuum to fully seat the piston at idle. The 3 step rods are about 1/16" longer than the 2 step. The tall pri jet used with the 3 step rod has the actual metering orifice 1/8" higher than the short...

Lewtot, You are correct, I have never done it before. And nobody in their right mind has either because as I already alluded to, the metering steps on the rods do not line up with the restriction in the jets.

^^^^ Completely wrong. Read post #6.

No, you cannot use the 3 step rods [ that were used with 'tall' pri jets ] with the shorter jets. The metering steps on the rods will be in the wrong position. If you want to keep the 3 step rods, you have to use the taller jets.

No.

As well as the fast idle linkage, check: - pri throttle shaft is not binding - t/blades are not hitting overhanging base gasket. Congrats on using a great arb.

Only if you want to spend more on fuel....

So it sounds like 42* is the magic number for idle timing for this engine [ see below ]. Sooooo, with this newfound knowledge, I would do this: - set initial static to 20* [ not 26 ]. - use an adj vac adv unit & connect it to a manifold vac port. [ Buy a new dist if needed with an adj VA unit ]...

Use the inner mounting holes on the Edel carbs & they will bolt on. The passages in the carb base may cause an air leak. I believe Edel makes a thin plate to cover these.

The Crapper cams, the Whiptrash cams, the Bootcrapper cams.....they all work on the same 'principle': lots of overlap, created by excessive exh duration & tight LSA. The exh valve opens early & you get as very noisy cackling exh note to attract the girls. The rough idle, poor low speed...

These carbs were lean. If it is now rich after being 'restored', then something happened.... How much T slot was showing at idle with the Carter? If excessive [ because of the cam], that would explain the rich condition. That is not the fault of the carb. The fix might be as simple as bypass air...

If you decide to keep the existing cam, then the starting procedure is as outlined in post #12. Engine will need a LOT of timing at idle & you do that with manifold connected vac adv. See below

Xcell, Unfortunately the parts combination is veeeeeery poor. The 'performance' can be improved but it will take time & effort & maybe some $$$$. The main culprit is the cam. The 383/400 Ch engine has the highest rod/stroke ratio of all the popular BB engines. In laymans terms, they do not...

These carbs use the 'tall' pri jets & three step met rods. Edel carbs & many earlier Carter carbs use the short jets & two step met rods. You could switch to these, but you will also need the flat piston covers, not the domed covers. Give us more info on the engine etc.

...put in gear if auto, & engine idling, SLOWLY advance the dist until you get the highest rpm reading; just do it by ear. Then check & see what the timing is. Wouldn't surprise me if it was 40* with your combo. [ see below ]. Do NOT touch the carb for now. Report back & we can take the next step.

Here is another trick to try. Can be done in situ in a few minutes, whether you have bogging...or you just want to see if acceleration is better. Reduce the WOT opening of the sec t/blades. This changes airflow AND distribution. On the rt side of the carb, the tang on the sec shaft hits a...

Last week I removed an Edel 800 AVS from a 360 that was powering a 3900 lb Dodge. Edel hadn't been dialled in properly at idle, & I felt it was too big for this cu. in/car weight. Fitted a 625 Carter AFB & acceleration was MUCH better. Bigger isn't always better....

66 Sat, In the pics, I can see a small brass tube next to the 1/4" brass tube. I would poke some wire in it & see where it goes. I thought you were happy with the Holley 700?

Put the vac gauge way.... Loosen met rod piston covers, swivel slightly so that pistons are in view, but captured; tighten covers. The pistons need to be down [ no movement ] in gear, at idle. Start with stiffest springs & keep going with spring selection until pistons stay down.