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I wrapped teflon thread tape on mine and then applied RTV sealer to the outside of the tape. Worked out good.

The only temperature gauge senders I found that work correctly are sold by Year One. As posted before there is a gauge one and a light type.

That is interesting info in your post. I have always tried to get the best marking possible and then bang it in the car and see if it is noisy or not. Most diff gear sets make a slight whine at some point - it is down to what speed it happens at and can you live with it. I had come to the...

I don't worry about all the measuring set-ups. I just start with a known shim thickness bang it together and do a marking. Adjust to suit what the marking shows me is needed.

From memory my one was 28 thousands.

Yeah get it out they can cause overheating issues on some engines.

It sounds like he has the stock bolts but it is something to check.

I would also like to hear about any fixes/thoughts. Exactly the same thing has happened to a friends 505 engine. The engine has not come apart yet but I will post here if we find anything definite. Start with anything that can load the crank in the direction the wear is - assuming it is only...

In the Melling instructions it warns you check hole in the cap will accept mounting neck of the pump. Check for burrs on the bearing cap. Carefully file down the oil pump until it drops fully in to position. Be careful to keep any metal out of your new engine. I mean only relieve the area of...

So long as you stay 20 thousands inside the head gasket you will be fine. Pays also to know were the top piston ring comes up to also.

The eyebrow would allow the intake charge (or more of it) to flow out around the valve area near the bore. If the valve is too shrouded it will restrict flow. Be careful not to grind until the head gasket is compromised or you weaken the top of the block.

No the source vacuum and the reading would be the same. The idea of running the PCV off the bottom of the carb is to share as much of the PCV contaminant across as many cylinders as possible.

Run the PCV and brake booster to separate vacuum sources. You don't want any of that contaminant/oily crap in your brake booster. You might need the brakes to work properly at some point.

No experience with that particular cam - I haven't seen cams from Cam Dynamics for years. As the others have mentioned with a lobe separation angle of 106 I believe it would most likely not be a street driveable camshaft. You didn't mention what you want to do with the engine - racing engine...

I think an important thing to remember in this discussion is the way you would set up a race car is different to a street car.

Down or up is viewed with the known reference point of the car being the front to rear direction applicable to both the transmission and the rear axle. I probably have not explained this well but it is very important point to working out the correct driveline angles. Post #2 is spot on and shows...

You could try Mega Parts - they may have something better suited for you.

Yep I was wrong I looked it up. 15 foot pounds is right.

25 foot pounds if they are 5/16

If you have green bearings did you remove the axle spacer from the sure grip carrier? Something must be different if the head was OK in another car.