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I would try what you have first. It would likely handle a 600 or 650 just fine. Get your headers and gears first and tune what you have before making another change.Just my opinion.

Wish I had the $$$. that out of the way,for any prospective buyer I assume it has a Dana being a 4 speed? What gear ratio?

Any quality 11" stall converter will likely give you the "feel" you are looking for. Knowing which cam you have would be helpful as well as any other modifications to the engine. Something likely in the 2600 range would suit most purple cams well smaller than the 284/484 cam.

Cam and Lifters, Timing, Hydraulic Flat Tappet, Adv. Duration 262/270, Lift .462/.470, Mopar, 273-360, Kit Everything else on your list is too large. Many other things needed to support that choice as well.

There was an old issue of one of the Mopar mags years ago where they did a complete suspension upgrade on a 71-74 Charger and they ran 295/50/15 on the rear and 265/50/15 on the front. Mopar muscle or high performance Mopar can't remember which. I am pretty sure they ran 8" on the front but...

Beautiful! Buy it!! My first car was a 73 400 Charger. Non Rallye but with buckets and console.Mine was flat hood and had Rallye wheels. I would probably trade/sell my big block duster to find one just like it in this condition.

Sounds like a well matched setup that wouldn't need a lot of gear.Don't really need any more than 10.0-1 with that camshaft.

I would opt for the race pro over the street pro.I would even run the turbo pro over the street pro.

FWIW I see Uniroyal and BFG throw belts in tires quicker than any other brand. Some are old and some are not. Now potholes will hurt any tire if the impact is large enough. Most of our old cars are stored inside and they seem to not dry rot and crack as quick as a tire that is left outside.

Mastercraft is owned and built by Cooper. I have sold both with no issues. Matter of preference on the trade pattern.

DODGE COMP Cams 21-249-4 COMP Cams Magnum Solid Camshafts | Summit Racing Maybe this one?

Try it and see. If it is still too loud then change mufflers and you will already have built in resonators. Please give us some before and after sound clips if you do.

I have a set of the purple horniest that bolt to header flanges. I will use them for the header install on my 72 Newport and to drive to the exhaust shop. To the OP if you don't want "loud" consider swapping mufflers.

Are those flowmaster mufflers? I can say I have never seen anyone try to use a resonator (glass pack or otherwise) with flowmasters. I would expect it to change the tone but have no idea how it will turn out.

It may very well be. I can purchase local and am not running high spring pressures with 2 hyd flat tappet cams so I doubt I will have any issues. If I ever build the stroked rb and don't run a roller cam I may opt for a different oil.

No extra zinc needed with Vr1 IMO.

It depends on how many miles are on it. An overall re seal with new freeze plugs not a bad idea. New timing chain set would be high on my list. After that how far are you willing to go? Valve job and some porting on the heads? Milling some for compression? Might as well replace that cast iron...

Lucas hot rod oil in 10w30. I also have Valvoline VR1 in 10w30.

I would imagine with stock rocker arms stock pushrods "should" work. If you run roller rocker arms then you will need different length pushrods.