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I would have to see your dash inserts or vents for very rare Strato Vent option on 1971 B Bodies only
Strato Vent would bee written in lettering on the heater switch face plate
Looks like a 1973 Cluster with the 120 mph speedometer and the vertical blower heater switch
73 and 74 has vertical blower switch
I posted correct horizontal blower switch
1971 1972 in earlier post
Looks like this - Not mine
Ask some guys in the 71 - 74 section
Heater Control Assy# 3431577 - B - Body - 1971-72 - USED - SHIPS FREE TO LOWER 48 - Blue Star Performance
71 Superbee 383 Magnum factory 22" Radiator Support
No Air - Factory 3:23 Sure Grip
Not all big blocks on a 71 Charger came with a 26" Radiator
Air conditioning cars had 26"
High performance rear axle cars / Track Pack cars had 26" etc.
3:55-3:91 / 3:54-4:10
I run this 22" Radiator on my 71...
I did a search on that Autozone B509 Radiator
Looks like a 28" Core
But couldn’t get a lot of specifics
I would assume 2 core 28"
Man that is plenty of radiator for a 3:23 Sure Grip
However even though it’s brand new , could have blockage in coolant flow , that’s where that infrared...
His initial post clearly states 3:23 Sure Grip
22" Radiators and 3:23 Gears commonly left the factory together
Now if he would have switched to 3:55/3:91 Gears , well
Overheating on the highway , take your factory fan and shroud out of the equation
You already have airflow at 65 70 75 mph
And you said it cools fine in town , where your fan and shroud enter the equation
Buy yourself a cheap infrared thermometer - When it starts getting hot on the highway...
22 "Radiator - Standard Cooling - No Air - No Performance Axle
3443938 is the correct service replacement number for core stamped numbers 3443961 & 3443962 (71 B & E body 22" 383 - no air).
If you have a broadcast sheet, look at line 3 (green line) under "RAD"... if it says 61 then your car...
With the engine cold , take off the radiator cap
Run the engine
You should not have any coolant flow across the top of the radiator when cold
As the thermostat starts to open at its rated temp you should have a steady flow of coolant across the top of the radiator
If the thermostat is rated...
Don’t take this personally
But $300 to boil or clean out a radiator
Yikes Yikes Yikes
And yes , a lot of radiator shops stopped doing this all together because of the chemicals used to clean or boil it out , I wonder how he boiled it out ? Or what was supposedly used
Anyways I can get...
I have both the 2747 and 2797 sitting in the garage , brand new
Noticed zero difference between the two at idle as far as cooling temp with the five blade Mopar performance viscous fan
The 2797 is a little over 1/4" taller or will get you closer to the radiator as far as the clutch only
Fan...
I have just the opposite problem
Gets hot at idle or stopped traffic for an extended period of time
High flow 180 degree thermostat
Anyways prior to the new radiator my factory 22" going down the highway with this new motor 195/200 degrees / 210 in the city
Installed a Brand new 22”...
Doesn't seem to be enough yet as after some highway running the temp still pops out at the T of 210-215. Radiator was boiled/flushed, new 160 thermo installed. The rad is original two-core
I think you answered your own question
I know you said boiled flushed , but you also said original two...
Turned out great 22" - Looked pretty before paint , I did not paint the radiator core itself , left that aluminum
Installed nice to radiator support - Factory fan shroud was used and pre drilled mounting holes where off slightly
Radiator hose location nice , same with auto transmission cooler...