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Unless this car has certain combinations of features and options it is not terribly rare, and without certain option combinations it's not anywhere near the top of the desirability or value chart. Removing the wheel well trim, side trim or vinyl top is not going to kill value. They can be fairly...
It's unclear what exactly is happening here with the line item "Cylinder Heads 60929", and I see nothing on the list for cam and valve train. These items can add a lot of dough depending on what you are doing.... so I don't think anyone can throw an accurate cost guess at you.
If you are in a...
Most states have a way to get a heap inspected and titled, though it will not have an original style VIN. Have your pal check with the DOL.
But yes, it's better to start off with a titled car that is not a rust bucket.
I spent my youth crawling though wrecking yards for fun. You would often find front-end collision cars where the steering wheel was bent into a pretzel and shoved back to the seat. It left a real impression on me. I agree that in addition to the column being collapsable, offsets with joints is...
So they mention T-tops as being a hazard, but not the convertibles of classic cars with their stylish and spindly A-pillars. Strange.
Non collapsible steering columns can very in severity. Some cars at least have the steering box located behind the front suspension, some on top of it, but some...
This is why I value the future of my 69 Charger 500 with factory AC and PW. These are become must haves for us as we age and for the newer generations who are used to them as standard equipment on all cars.
Too many factors to answer, but in general I find AC on a classic car to be a maintenance PITA, ugly, and just extra weight.
If I lived in Denver and had a restored 69 Charger R/T, absolutely not. If I lived in Phoenix and had a 72 Satellite that I cruised often, then maybe.
For those thinking about getting a new pad, what exactly were the issues? Were they specific issues to your pad, or is the pad made wrong/badly to start with?
More info would help. How and when does it get hot.....At idle? Around town? Highway? How fast does it get hot, under what conditions, and what action (if any) seems to cool it down? Is it all the time, or only when it is hot ambient temps outside?
Beyond the basics, a reading of the spark...
I have swapped pads with the dash frame in the car before twice. It IS a PITA, but knowing where the nuts are certainly helps. Be prepared to move stuff out of the way to get to the nuts (e.g. glove box). It really helps to put the front seat(s) out for working room. If your car is an AC or...
I find it quite humorous that the Chinese knockoff RPM manifold copier choose to keep the square pad that Eddy recently added to affix their "made in USA" plate.
But..... When it comes down to either money or principals, I'll choose principals.
Now if they copied the old CH4B, I might buy...
You don't really need an oil cooler unless you are racing (not drag racing) or towing/hauling heavy loads. My race car will run 180 on the coolant all day long but oil temps get high without a direct oil cooler.
...... But I cannot fathom a reason why you want to stop it from functioning yet...
Its been said already, but WP29U3G is a most definitely a 73 Charger SE 440 car. The DMV did you wrong tossing the tittle (assuming it had the same numbers on it!) and you should be in their management offices Monday morning before this thing gets too cold. Hopefully you have an old registration...
Well, the good news is that it held together on a circle track at 6000 rpm!
I would do exactly what you have already concluded. First, I would slide the cam out and get the part number off it. I'd also make sure swapping out the "seriously shaved" heads did not screw up the existing valve...
I have saved several of these over the years and need to pick one out matched for for street rod with F-body style front disc/rear 10 inch drum combo.
Of course I did not tag them. Does anyone know how to identify these things?
I think perhaps a long road trip in Finland is like a day trip here in the western US. Here, you might expect to drive 75mph (120mph) for an entire day+ and I would prefer the 2.94s for long trips. For shorter trips, I would be happy with the 3.55 as long as I was running a tall (28 inch plus)...
That's kind of a mixed bag of questions and goals. The best tire pressure for handling depends on spring rates, what kind of driving and handling, etc. ... lots of factors. In general, I start at 32 in the summer and up it to 34 in the winter. I check tire wear and adjust up or down over the...