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You probably won't need "the piece". A professional welder will weld that whole area solid for strength,and then grind to correct contour and re-drill hole. Shoot some paint on it and nobody will ever know.
No problem hooking up power to timing light at alternator output post. I've done it many times. Your alligator clip probably swiveled a bit when you were setting timing, and shorted out against alternator housing.
Maybe try to find a younger guy to buy it for cheap. He will eventually maybe figure out it is too far gone, monetarily, to fix, but he may be content to just sit in it and dream. The seed will be planted though, and who knows where it might lead.
Ha ! I never get pissed off on FBBO ! (FABO maybe !!) Just an opinion, not a directive. Hell, I will probably throw disc's on the front of my car, IF I find a good deal on a set-up, before I pass it down to my oldest son ( 11 sec street car ), but the kid better read up on carb's !! Just don't...
Kind of my pet peeve how people feel they HAVE to switch from drum to disc, or it's a certain fiery death !! Ha-ha. I put my 17yr old in a Valiant with manual drums. He drove it 2yrs, no problems (V8 also). I have a 70yr old friend who daily drove, in the summer) his massive '70 300 convertible...
Leave it in and get the rubber cover that the company Steer and Gear sells ! It just slides on and seals tightly. Have used them on two cars, although had to replace one after a few years because it developed a small split. Will solve your problem easily.
Must contradict above post. Had a '67 GTX with factory 4 wheel drums, 11" x 3" all the way around. In fact, I wrecked that car and now have those same brakes on my current '67 Belvedere.
Buy a spill free funnel. They work great. Pull the temp sending unit out of the engine and add your coolant through the funnel slowly until it comes out sending unit hole. Replace sender and continue adding coolant until it backs up into funnel. Run engine to burp air until t-stat opens and both...