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Did you mean you put the  "new one back in and the noise gone".?

I had a brother in law that was hearing a high pitch squealing on his Ford pickup that nobody else could hear. It was driving him crazy. He pinpointed it to the pvc valve. He replaced it with a new one. Noise was gone. Couldn't prove it by me but he was happy.

Just an example. Pulled the picture off the WWW.

It goes all the way in. The flat side goes in first.

Probably where you leak is coming from. The small seal keeps fluid from going into the end of the cable. Also your large o-ring has a nick in it. I'd avoid using any sealer.

There's an inspection cover. Remove it. You'll have to turn the flywheel/converter to see each bolt. Use a open end wrench on the torque converter bolt to turn it to the next one or a socket on the front damper bolt.

You'll need the small seal inside of the speedometer gear. Hope you can see how it goes by this picture.

I vote for cracked flexplate also.

Permatex #2 never totally hardens. It's almost like pipe dope. No silicone, more of a tar substance. It's been around a lot longer than me.

I'd remove the header and do a close inspection of that hole. If it has a crack you might be chasing your tail. If it is cracked you might be able to repair it in the car.

Dr Diff carries some F#$d items also.

Post in thread 'Shift cable O Ring' Shift cable O Ring

If it happens to be too tight where you have to force it, I wouldn't use it. When installed they need to turn freely without any drag. When I press them into the end of the driveshaft I always tap the cross back the opposite way to relieve the pressure it took to press it in.

Get yourself a new condenser. Don't over think it.

I'd have to check the FMS again but I didn't even torque mine that much. I was feeling the pucker factor kicking in and chickened out. Edit... I checked and it's 10 inch lbs. The reason I had to remove my park housing is because I broke the clamp bolt making the park cable adjustment. It only...

Icetech covered this pretty good.

That's the clamp bolt that holds the cable in place. You just loosen the nut but not all the way. Gently tap it at the threaded end to move it. You'll feel the cable loosen up. You don't remove it. Also when reinstalling the cable you don't want to over tighten it. It will snap. I believe it's...

Here's the rear band shaft that was mentioned. I'd get it real clean with parts cleaner then puff some baby powder all over everything and watch where it's coming from. Might save you more work if it's only the gasket or cable o-ring. Still involved to remove the cable and housing. There's a...

Made my own piston stop. Instructions... Post in thread 'Finding TDC' Finding TDC