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Ohhhh boy here we go ........
To the OP, please do some reading either on this site or anywhere else on the web. This topic has been beaten to death so many times its not funny any more. Any question you have has been covered in one thread or another.
As pnora said, I sure wouldn't either...
Great video.
For all those that have disputed this in the past , pretty hard to argue with a " in front of your own eyes " demonstration .
Many have tried in the past to explain in words or examples . Sometimes a real life , real time video is what is needed to settle the argument!
Cheers
I guess I should have re worded my question. Why would the boot crack like that ?
I understand once the boot was cracked , it was easier for the the spark to jump to the header. But why would the boot crack like that ? Just a product failure ? The silicone the boot was made of wasn't able to...
I have a set of Firecore spark plug wires I put on the car about 7 years ago. This spring noticed a misfire at low rpm . A bit inspection and I noticed one of the plug boots arcing over to the header.
As seen in the picture it has a pretty good Crack in the boot. I guess my only choice is to...
I will double check my ballast, but I do believe mine is .8 ohms,
Street Fire coil MSD Ignition 5524 MSD Street Fire Coils | Summit Racing
Mopar Orange ECU that came with my Electronic conversion about 10 years ago now.
Setup has worked flawless for the last 6 years.
I'm confused. 2 awg wire is a bit of odd ball size. But is thicker than 4 awg is it not? 0/1 usually being largest for most automotive applications and usually used for some serious aftermarket stereo stuff ?
After all that and at least 2 other people agreeing and explaining WHY the ALT side and you still don't get it. NO ONE has defended your method. And to come back and call me a hack again. You are hopeless.
And you are doing EXACTLY THAT you are arguing with the principals of the electronics...
We're not talking about a car 25-30 years old are we?
We are talking about OLD cars.
Your "reference" is what got you messed up. You still fail to acknowledge and agree with the principal of the original electrical system.
The ICE is propelling the car. The alternator is still powering...
From the start. Your statement. Alternator is FUSED and goes into a buss system. WRONG
The buss/fuse box is direct off the battery. WRONG
The BATTERY IS NOT powering the car!!!! plain and simple the alternator is.
I think the ego is to big to admit his faults.
Multiple people have agreed with my original statement. With an OEM style system u want a high amp load on alternator side of the system . Hopefully the original poster has followed his own thread !
WTF.
The only way this works is 1. The car has to be hot to where the thermo switch is closed first. 2. The car dies and you just sit there and do nothing? The relay needs IGN 12V . as soon as you turn off the key the relay open and fans are off.
Its not like the fans just run whenever by...
Truth be told, when I installed my fans I hooked it up EXACTLY as you said, off the Battery. I had nothing but problems, the car would struggle at idle when the fans come on, only when the fans came on. I did voltage checks, and tested connections, had my alternator tested, did this and that...
I don't care what cars today have. Does our 60s car have the same electronics as a 2019 dodge pick up? NO so don't compare .
So as you stated the only fuse , is the fuseable link on the engine side of bulkhead.
You fry your fuseable link, the system is not dead, until you turn off your car...