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Dang. I haven't had that happen to me in years. I know it's hardened, but can you maybe slice it up a little with a dremel cutoff wheel(s)? Maybe pieces would come out easier, or just cutting a channel down the center will allow a chisel to collapse the edges inward?

Agreed. It all depends on how quick you shut it off. I’ve done this myself successfully

If it were me, I’d try to replace just that valve/piston (& check the rod). You can pull 1 head and get at what you need without even pulling the engine

Yep…2.76 or 2.94 gears

WOW! There is some super useful information above. Another way to look at it is you can measure what you need (assuming your yoke bolts to your pumpkin). As mentioned, you might not have a “typical” u-joint size, but you’ll find what you need if you know the dimensions you need (length & cap...

I think what you’re talking about is a yoke “sleeve”. That is a repair part. You should definitely get another sleeve pressed on by a quality machine shop or repair shop. Your yoke is worn right where the seal hits. A new sleeve will “build up and smooth out” the sealing area….so no more leaks...

As far as I know, just the A-833, whatever the 3-speed manual is and anything produced by Brewers Performance. The A-833 is very strong

No. It does go in the water pump housing, but it screws in the on the passenger side "back into" the housing, not "down into" the housing

Lean Burn elimination is common. The whole system, distributor, etc removed & replaced with a ‘72-style (or aftermarket) ignition

Others here know more….but if you have a driveshaft that’s the correct length and attaches that “trunion” (?) tail shaft, I think you’re in good shape….maybe the shifter needs changing? Maybe not? You need pedals, a tang (?) to weld on the frame to connect to the z-bar (linkage), make sure your...

Dr diff is the favorite here, but moser or strange axles are good too. I’m not sure about Yukon

Why are you pulling the motor? Not needed to replace the oil pan (fyi)

You will fail California emissions (if required) without a PCV valve

I added a mechanical temp gauge to the hole on top of the water pump housing with the "square drive" plug in it (big block). Your sensor could go there if you've got a big block

3psi sounds low for fuel pressure

I’m running Isky rocker and a hydraulic cam. Follow the adjustment order carefully and make sure you stay with cylinder #1 at TDC. I loosen the nut & put the pushrod in. Then, I twirl the pushrod with my left hand and turn the adjustment screw with my right hand back and forth until I hit the...

Yes, use the hole where the 3/8” square hole is. You’ll probably need to heat the area with a torch and use a breaker bar adapted down to 3/8” to remove the plug. You will need a brass adapter & it’s included with many temperature gauge kits

Well, all 383’s will be neutral balanced & a forged crankshaft 440 with small rods (‘66-‘69) will be neutral balanced also. However, “big rod” 440’s (‘70-‘73) and cast crank 440’s (‘74-‘78) will be externally balanced

Good question….surprise answer. In general, your engine will run better and more efficiently with quite a bit more initial timing advance….maybe 10-15 degrees (guess), but limit your total advance to 34-36 degrees to prevent spark knock. Since you only have a few degrees initial advance AND...

Yes - your question is confusing