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That's pretty close to what I've got. There just aren't that many short push rod choices out there either.

Yeah, I think I'm going to leave the lifter bores alone - I'm leaving the short block alone since there is nothing wrong with that. The non-ideal angle will need to stay. Thanks for the specs and details there seem to be a fair amount of similarities between the two engines. I assume yours is a...

I agree from a maintenance perspective: It is absolutely NOT a "frequent valve adjustment" issue. Done (and tightened properly), they last for years with minimal work required. I have a high lift solid lifter car I haven't had to touch for 5 years so far. In this case with the 340 we've been...

I want to update folks on the status of this: Regarding the significant angle between the lifter and pushrod: This is what it is, and there is nothing really that can be done about this given the parts that I have. The angle is made worse by a taller lifter, so a solid lifter is a possibility...

I don't have one handy here at the house, so my .331" number will need to stand - but that's close enough to verify that the cam was ground at least pretty close to spec. I'm not worried about a few thousandths, but losing .140" has me concerned.

Cam spec was .340" lobe lift, and I measured .331". The .009" might be my measuring error or it could be the way the cam was cut. Either way, I'll call that pretty close and verified. But I'd really like to get better than .370" valve opening!

I didn't have a very weak temporary spring, so we actually used a friend's fingers as our "spring". The valve spring was removed and he just gently pushed against the spring retainer to keep it seated. So no, we didn't block the plunger but we did make sure we did not collapse the lifter. The...

I need some help from the brain trust here please! First some specs: * Small block LA 340, bored .030" over * Stroker crank, so now displaces 416 CI * HAD a hydraulic flat tappet cam (more on that below) * Aluminum Renegade brand heads * 1.5 ratio roller rockers * New hydraulic lifter cam...

You have to measure, and then shim the cam button behind it to get the spec (about .010") you need. But you need the cam button to start with. The cam button contacts the timing chain cover, so you should really add extra support to be sure it doesn't flex. Some guys may say that is not needed...

As @bigbluedodge stated, the taper in the camshaft keeps the lifters rotating. Any flat tappet cam has this. It also puts a force on the cam backwards that helps keep it in place Agreed - until you go to a roller cam. A roller cam has flat lobes, so the cam CAN move forward. When adding a...

Agree. @Vincent Holt Put a piston stop (see picture below) in the #1 spark plug hole. Turn the engine by hand one direction. When it stops, mark the balancer at the zero indicator on the timing chain cover. Now turn the engine by hand the opposite way until it stops again. Again mark the...

One suggestion with those bearings: Drill and tap the bearing. Then if you have to take it out, two screws will easily pull it out for you!

I fully agree with @dadsbee. A .017" press is WAY too much, you'll ruin the bushing trying to get it in. A .0015" - .002" press is spot on, IMHO.

Seems like good service. Quick, and the guy actually thought about your use and did what is best for you. That's a business I would go back to!

That's good - you really want both heads cut the same so the compression stays the same one side to another. At my father-in-law's shop, we evaluate the heads and cut the worst one first. The second always gets the same amount of a cut even if it doesn't need it so the engine runs consistently.

I think Doug's and TTI both make headers that don't "dangle" below the steering on the driver's side. Trust me, I lived with them on my 73 for years, and the clearance sucks. IMHO, well worth the extra cash to buy good headers.

The special steel wool is typically used where a crank counterweight has been drilled out to lighten it for one build, and then later for another build it needs to have weight put back into it. Mallory metal is very expensive and not needed for that type of repair. Even though this steel wool is...

Yeah, and I would have thought the weight would be mostly removed from the rod journal side opposite the counter weight. The counter weights on each side of the crank are where most balancing is done. The second picture the OP posted shows that the counter weight has been drilled for balancing...

My guess would be for balancing. Mostly, you take weight off the counterweights. But adding weight to the counterweights can be difficult. So I suspect that rather than adding weight to the counterweights someone instead removed it from the rod journal side. A few grams won't hurt anything, but...

Yup. What he said. I sometimes wiggle the pushrod up and down. You hear and feel the slight tapping as it moves. at the point where it stops doing that, you are pretty much at "zero lash". Regardless of technique, with some practice, you can feel the point of zero lash.