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There is a plastic screw that drives the odometer. It contacts on different sides depending on where the odometer rests (above or below the needle).

The Charger (And other B bodies with Rallye dash) speedometer has the odometer display below the needle. The others I have here have the odometer above the needle. This means there are some differences I didn’t see at first. Maybe they are mostly related to how the odometer is driven...

Thank you, Travis. I did go to Commercial Speedometer today. First, I partially disassembled the instrument panel to get the speedometer out. I tested the operation of the speedo with a cable and a drill. Just an FYI… the cable turns CCW to operate the speedometer. The guys at the shop...

That tach was new from a vendor known as Charger Specialties. I bought it some time in the early 2000s. I don't know if they are still in business. They're still in business? I remember going there in the 80s when I worked in the service department for a Chevy dealership!

It has been awhile since I updated things but I took a few moments to tinker today. I’m pondering what to do about this: The car isn’t actually going 145 mph. Of the three speedometers I had, this one had the cleanest face. Keep in mind, I have been diligent with this project to make the car...

I had to have a guy TIG weld the air cleaner base for my MP air cleaner.... He took two bases to make one, the original MP base and an aftermarket 14" base with a deeper drop. If I knew how to TIG weld, I'd make a few just to have spares.

I hope that you saved and sold the 1970 front end stuff. There are plenty of 1970 owners that could benefit from fenders and other stuff. "Dunrobin"....Is that in Ontario? I had to look it up. If so, wow...you are not just down the street from Summit Racing or other auto parts stores!

That is great. These old cars can still handle quite well with the right parts and a good alignment. Score ! ********************************** Edit....dang phone and small screen, I make too may typos on that thing.

Yeah....The drawback of some custom setup is the limited availability of replacement parts. Holley sells a replacement front accessory drive for the 3 G Hemi swaps. it supposedly uses an alternator from the LS series Chebby...Hey, at least availability wouldn't be an issue.

Nice work. What serpentine belt setup is that? That doesn't look like a Mopar alternator!

Just an FYI: You'll need a new flasher to be compatible with LEDs. They require what is known as a "no load" type for proper operation.

The chart I have shows opposite of that. One inch loses 1.5 degrees of caster while only losing a tiny fraction of toe.

The thing I learned about our cars….. if the steering has excessive toe OUT, it will give negative camber. If the toe is IN too much, it will give positive camber. All of these things are inter-related so one thing does affect other things.

You do have to drive forward and back to settle the suspension.

Yes.

The best way I can describe it is that the end of the control arm needs to be IN at the rear and OUT at the front. Turning the cam bolts, you’ll see what I mean. The head of the hex nut will be IN for the rear of the UCA and OUT on the front.

The improvements in straight line stability with increased caster is great.

The aftermarket UCAs all seem to be built with increased caster in mind. You may know this but caster and camber are somewhat intertwined. It is hard to have positive camber and positive caster. You don't want positive camber anyway so that is sort of moot. I run .75 negative camber, 5 degrees...

I can't clearly see and you may already know but each time I install an UCA, I put the rear section adjusted all the way IN toward the engine and the front section all the way OUT towards the fender. This allows you a medium amount of negative camber and some positive caster. The alignment guy...

I'd ask the advice of an engineer before proceeding, man. Those guys really make the task easier.