Search results for query: *

Break out the torch, but make SURE you get that fuel line empty & maybe using a “heat blanket” and have a fire extinguisher handy

Your idea is good. Just replace any section of damaged gasket and use RTV, especially in the corners

It’s hard to tell, but it sounds like the front of the engine. Try to narrow it down further. It sounds like either a worn/bent rocker arm/pushrod/cam lifter on one of the front cylinders OR possibly the fuel pump pushrod. Because it’s quieter cold, my first guess if you have one lifter that is bad

Newer, better products came out. Instead of drilling a hole and using offset bushings to degree a cam, you just turn the crank gear to a different notch. Much easier. FYI - I’m running one of those Direct Connection Stimming chains now

Good advice above. First, see what the shop says about you rods, block, crank. On the cheap, look for an entire engine rebuild kit with the pistons you want. Ask here and get 100 cam recommendations

Sounds like vapor lock…. But it could be your ignition box. I had a 318 Charger act like that. The back of the ignition box was “gooey” (heat I guess). Replaced the box and problem gone

Compression on #7 shows the rings are good, so the oil is coming past one of the valve stem seals

You can also source a rebuilt engine at a local parts store with a 1-2 yr warranty. ATK comes to mind as a rebuilder

Do you have a 318 car? Automatic?

Floor it in drive from a dead stop and see if it really barks the tires going into 2nd gear

Yes, you can use your ‘67 3.23’s directly into your ‘70 rear end. The only thing you need to do is check the rear end pinion u-joint size. There are 2 sizes, big and small. (Like 3-1/2” vs 3” or something like that?). You need to match up the back of your ‘70 driveshaft with the ‘67 rear end...

Real answer - no, the antifreeze doesn’t expire, so it’s still good. There are several types of Peak 50/50 (fyi)

I agree with pnora. Maybe take a very close look at how the market brake seals and “possibly” mill it so it seals better to the heads. You may have been sucking oil into your legs brake ports from the valley area. Besides that, I’m not sure why you are rebuilding it???

Yeah, I read them as “old and rusty”

Your carburetor is about right. You could “try” a 850cfm, but I’m not sure it would make more horsepower

575 hp engine dyno

As mentioned, buy the pan & pickup from the same manufacturer. I had a “Hemi” pan & pickup not work together when I ordered them from different companies

Agreed. Get it running with the stock intake. You can swap an intake later in about 2 hrs

I ran into this 30 yrs ago with the engine already in the car. I cut 1/2” off the nose of the transmission & put a slight bevel on the end. It’s been working for 30 yrs. I was afraid of throwing the balance of the motor off. The shop that did the crank said “we were afraid of drilling into an...

Yes, that is RTV & it shouldn’t be there. I’ve used it on header bolts/studs, but pipe thread sealant is better. It should not be in either side of a header gasket (gasket only)