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Did you read the link in post #38? Up to 50* of idle timing!!! [ See another link, below ]. With your combo, I would do this: - you have an adj VA unit on your dist. Turn The Allen Key fully CW [ softest spring setting ]. - set init timing to about 15* [ not critical ] with VA disconnected. -...

So you did the test in post #35 & 36* was best idle? Does not surprise me at all. My engine idles at 48*. [1] Did idle rpm increase with 36*? [2] Was idle smoother? [3] This [ ign timing at idling ] is a hugely misunderstood subject....& a lot of ignorance about it.

Timing at idle needs to be a LOOOOOOOOOOOT more than 10*. For three reasons: - factory #s are always conservative - low comp ratio burns slower, needs more ign advance [ timing ] - more cam overlap, more idle timing needed. This is also going to be part of the problem. It is a veeeeery simple...

What is the initial timing? You probably need a LOT more; that will increase idle rpm, allowing the t/blades to be closed more; may still need some bypass air, but idle timing FIRST. 78 400 had a 8.2:1 CR. If it is still 8.2, that is not helping...

Do you mean the mixture screws have little affect on idle quality? [1] Make sure your PCV is working, not blocked up. It should rattle when you shake it. [2] Remove carb & see how much transfer slot is showing at idle. it should be 020 - 060. I am guessing it is going to be a LOT more, which...

There is a reason that you pay more $$$ for good quality shocks. Save up for a quality brand. Koni are also very good.

Sounds like flooding. Check needle/seats & replace met block gaskets.

There seems to be a few companies making the generic 292/509 cam.

#6 plug may have had a cracked insulator before you removed it. That can cause a misfire.

Make sure BOTH needles & seats in the carb are open, one not stuck shut.

The BEST pump is the Carter Electric pump, either 72 or 100 GPH versions. It is the only external pump that I am aware of that has the fuel circulating through the electrical section. This does a number of things: lubes the bearings, cools the motor & eliminates the seal between the elec & pump...

It is always best to use a shroud. The shroud needs to be sized to fit the fan....... You say you have an aftermarket fan.......if the OD is smaller than the shroud is designed for, the benefit of the shroud [ considerable ] is reduced...or lost altogether. Make sure you seal the gaps around...

Put the original Carter AVS carb back on. They work..

There are tests for fan clutches but they are very subjective & do not give a really definitive answer as to the clutch condition. Original 68 clutch & you have overheating??? It is a no-brainer: time for a new clutch. They are not that expensive. They clutches come in three levels: standard...

Any flat tappet lifters that are 25 yrs old would be suspect....... Cam lobe/lifters could be wiped. You would need to remove the intake & check visually.

Do you think the engine might have a performance cam in it? Depending on how 'big' the cam is, it will idle rough.....& a rough idle would be 'normal' if the cam is big enough. Consequences flow from big cams.....bigtime!! You get exactly the symptoms you are experiencing. Not saying this is...

What carb? What dist? What is the voltage at the battery, engine idling?

Make sure the fuel tank vent is open.

Overheating can be caused by so many things....[ assuming rad is not blocked ] - rust scale in the water jackets - retarded ign timing - lean mixture - too much clearance between w/pump blades & pump body. Water escapes past the gap, does not get captured to pump through the block - & many more...

Yes, factory replacement for the 6 pack. The 375 hp 4 bbl & 6 pack cams had identical lift & duration, the lobe taper & lifter radius was different on the 6 pack cam. The 115 LSA is not ideal & there are better cams now available.