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The tach housing grounds to the dash cluster. The studs with a "G" are grounds to the tach housing. + is keyed ignition and the other one is the tach signal. Make sure the signal wire is on the negative side of the coil. I have a re-pop one as well and mine took a **** after 500 miles. So now I...

It probably goes open hot. Just run a jumper wire across and feed the coil the full 12 volts, it won't hurt anything to run with the full 12 volts for a little while to test things.

Mine is 929 with a 136, so for sure it is B18.

You can use the manual switch but the car will start without the clutch pressed down. That only difference is the grounding path. Either through the relay or through the clutch switch.

I do have some old pictures of it, from the owner before Ramine. I fully restored the car, when I got it, it was a roller. I guess he has the original tail panel (with the dealer logo) on it (I cannot read it from the photo I have) . The car came out of Virginia. He also has some documentation...

That would be awesome. I own the V-code super bee he has some parts from. I would really appreciate it. I have been trying to reunite the transmission to the car. Thanks Jeff Hammer

Nice transmission, I all most fell off my chair. I am looking for 0A136175, yours is 0A141563, so close. Last known location of my original transmission is in Maryland by a guy named Ramine Ramine who is a friend of racer brown, but I cannot get a hold of him anymore to get him to sell it back...

Here is my 70 V-code, two tone, track pack.

Look through the ventury and see if it sticks up about an 1/8/of an inch, you maybe able to push it down through there instead of sticking something in it to pull it out.

Talk with Dwayne Porter from Porter Racing heads in Vermont. Nothing wrong with stroking the engine and getting a lighter rotating assembly. Dwayne can spec you out a killer combination that is proven and works with headers or exhaust manifolds. I like the sleeper look, as for the engine no one...

The mechanics of it are: if the input shaft is not slowing down (caused by a tight bushing grabbing the shaft tip), when you press in the clutch the syncro's cannot grab onto the gear enough to slow it down. There is another thought as well and this is a highly debated topic is what oil you...

Or trade in your shifter for a refurbished one at Brewer's.

Then, I would use the pal nuts (speed Nuts) that are listed above. They can be bought at any hardware store. Try to find some little rubber washers for a seal, or use the electricians putty to make a seal (it's non hardening). This is what I used .50" Wide Mastic Sealer Washers Seal Body Parts...

Try R/t Specialties or Partsmix Partsmix

The stud has a rubber washer so does the acorn nut.

Classic industries sells them.

They are not plain pal nuts, but they will work. They are actually acorn nuts long style. Let me try and find a photo.

Are you sure its DOT 5? or 5.1? DOT 5 is silicone based, DOT 5.1 is compatible with DOT 3 and 4.

RTR stands for ready to run. How is the block grounded to the chassis? You mentioned the distributor grounded to the block. Also, Ohm out the coil as suggested before.