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No actually my 63 calls for 1/4 to 1/2 positive camber by the factory specs. But like I say I like to set them right at zero and I have had my 63 on the road with them settings since 2006. I still have the same front tires on it with no uneven wear as they are wearing perfectly and it handles...
My 63 Sport Fury has stock power drum brakes. I just use normal brake linings and I also race the car sometimes and it stops fine from 10.70's at 125 mph. Been driving it on the street like this since 2006 when I put it on the road. Ron
I like to set my camber right about 0 on both sides and caster with stock suspension parts I give it as much positive caster as I can and you will be lucky to get 2 positive with a stock front end. Toe in 1/16 to 1/8. I race my car sometimes also and I like them specs for my street/strip cars...
Like 65-440 all my using of SS springs have been great. My brakes have never locked up when I was not standing hard on them and I run the factory Power drum brakes on all four corners. I also race my car and have no problem stopping from 125 mph 1/4 mile blast. Sure disc would stop even...
Well I have to disagree here as my 63 handles like a dream. I drive it all the time on the street as it is a 99% street car as I only race it once or twice a year. Corners fine and drives great as a regular driving car. Of course its not a road race car but what old muscle car is with stock...
All you do is adjust the torsion bars so it sits level with SS springs. Every set I have put on I did that and the ones on my 63 I had to do that as they have been on the car since 2008. I race mine sometimes so I wanted the correct left and right springs on it. If it sits high on the R/R...
I used the same Master Cylinder. I just unhooked my line to the rear brakes at the block and plug the hole. Then extended the line to the front M/C res and ran the other front line to the rear res. Been like that since 2006 and still working fine. Ron
Actually all the Mopar people I knew back in the 70's just never used traction bars on their Mopars. We all run SS springs or pinion snubbers. I always saw traction bars on GM and Ford cars but never on Mopars in my area. Guess thats why I always just thought of GM and Fords using traction...
I never ran traction bars on Mopars. Super Stock springs and sometimes a pinion snubber but that worked great back in the day. Right now on my 63 I just use Super Stock springs and thats it and it hooks good. Ron
On my 63 street car which is all stock parts I run camber at 0 to + 1/2 and give it all the pos caster I can which with stock parts is around maybe 2 pos. Set my toe at 1/8 to a 1/16 in. Works great for me as I drive it all over and race it on them specs and it handles fine. Ron
The pain is if the pressure diff valve moves over when bleeding or before bleeding from a loss of fluid in one half the system then the brake light will come on and then you wont get much fluid out of 1/2 the system. I have had that cause pretty much no fluid to the rear brakes when the valve...
On my home alignment on my 63 with stock suspension I set the caster with all the positive it will give which is only about 1 to 2 degrees positive at most. Then I set my camber around 0 and the toe at 1/8 in. Seems to work great on my car for street & strip. And the same front tires have been...
I run the standard 55" SS springs on my 63. They are the 3400 lb rated ones I bought from Mancini. This how it sits and how they fit as these are the same size (lenth) as the A-body 002-003 springs on my sons 72 Dart. Ron
Yea as my 63 goes like 3725 with me so I also went with the 3400 lb springs. When I ran a 3300 lb A-body I ran the 3000 lb springs the 002 & 003 springs. Ron
And this is the car launching. It actually did not hook good on this pass as my 60 ft was bad on this pass. You can see it always lifts the left front tire a bit more then the right front but the car goes nice and straight all the time. Ron