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Maybe they were more popular on the west coast... My 69 Roadrunner Coupe had them to... In fact I've owned five 68-70 B bodies & they all have had them...

Should be 1/2-13 AKA 1/2 NC.... If a coarse bolt doesn't thread in the threads are either damaged or rusty... Run a tap through them....

If I don't return calls I don't work.... I'll admit I don't want to work quite as much as I have in the past, but I still have that response built in... Can't understand the new way of the world...

When there's a need I get the impression your capable of doing what needs to be done..

My first impression is yes... Can you try fitting them to the car? Or gotta buy it to try it? Hard item to find... But not a lot of people need them either... Can you get a few measurements? Length & width... The Dodge ones are about 1/2" longer....

Back when SNL was funny..

Typical these days... Looking for a payday...

My brother has a place outside Austin Tx on Lake Travis... Tornado came through took out a trailer park just up the road, lifted over his neighbor hood & dropped back down & took out the only other trailer park within five miles.... Trailers are like lightening rods for tornados...

Which makes the average donation $58.13... Amazing how quick it adds up... Steve deserves every penny..

Oil pan and trans pan are on the same plane as the crankshaft... 3 degrees down is a good starting point.. It'll probably be fine, if not a small shim would nail it... FWIW I've got a few tools for measuring the angle but lately I'm really liking one of these...

Call Booster Dewey & see what he says... Actually I think Dewey retired & his son Steve is the guy doing the work these days..

Yes you would still vacuum, but if it's being applied to the wrong port it won't do anything...

An hour later $214K... Awesome..

Poke around in this thread... 68-70 B-body factory a/c vacuum line routing I'm thinking (wild *** guess) you might have the vacuum being supplied to the wrong port on the switch...

The Chinese version rarely offers much if any assist... And yet finds a way to make the pedal feel soft or squishy... Rebuilding normally makes the booster work to it's max performance so I doubt it will reduce the effectiveness.. Might give them a call and ask... What about pedal ratio? Does...

Those boosters were never stock on any vintage cars... First application I'm aware of was a mid 80's Mazda... The real Japanese version isn't a bad piece for lighter cars but the ones sold by CPP are Chinese... I'm guessing the booster your thinking of is the old Midland Ross piece... Common...

Yup, with regular flashers polarity doesn't matter... LED Flashers it does matter... the wire positions need to be flipped..

Degas is very different from an overflow... Coolant actively flows through the degas tank and it's pressurized... Overflow/recovery tank is outside the normal coolant path and lives at atmospheric pressure...

Yup, something is moving, initially it takes away the free play, as the torque increases the engine shifts further and reaches the point the clutch releases partially..