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I had KYBs on the front of my Roadrunner. They leaked all of the shock fluid out as soon as I set the car on the ground. Now I have a pair from a company called Sachs. They only make them for the front though. You can get them from eBay for $90 a pair and the ride quality is great.

No, I’m going to rebuild the car.

Man that hurts even worse to look at, sorry that happened.

Had one in the garage that came in handy and was easier to get to but yes I will be putting one in the car when I get it done.

Will do

Okay, Good to know.

Those are good precautions, I’m sure my paranoia will get me into those habits if or when I get it fixed.

Yeah it definitely could have been worse. If nobody was home we would have lost out whom house and about three other cars so I’m just thanking the good lord it only go as bad as it did. I’m going to try and save it.

Well today was alignment day for the roadrunner. After getting all new ball joint, tie rods, control arms and bushings for the roadrunner I took it out for a front end alignment to a very trusted place that have aligned many cars for my family. I got it done and it drove the best it’s ever drove...

I’m running those same shocks on my roadrunner and I’m very pleased with them and there not too costly.

I don’t right now but the arm has about 3/4 of an inch of clearance from the frame.

Okay, I never had the torsion bars out but the car was really butchered together when I got it so it wouldn’t surprise me the guy who had it before me put them in wrong. It was a drag car back in the day so I’m sure they were Messing with the suspension. The socket doesn’t look like it spun in...

So my 69 roadrunner developed a new noise underneath just yesterday when I was driving to a car show and I got underneath and spotted the torsion bar adjustment arm was hitting the frame rail and it left rubbing marks on it. I tried messing with the adjustment but I can’t get it to where it...

Have a set of LED headlights for sale that were off of my 2002 dodge neon. They’re in almost perfect condition. I Paid 120 for them from eBay, I’ll sell them for 80 for the pair. Local pickup in northern Kentucky.

Have a set of 392 hemi valve covers for sale from a 1958 motor. $275. Will ship on buyers dime or local pick up in northern Kentucky. Thank you.

So just following up on this thread, I got the new A body adjuster rod in the mail today and I got it on the car and that solved the issue. The pedal comes all the way up on its own and I have the gap at the throw out bearing to clutch fingers set perfectly. I haven’t took it out for a test yet...

Okay, thanks for the information, I already got a new rod ordered so I’ll try that first since that will be the easiest solution for now and if that doesn’t work, I’ll try something else.

Yeah it’s an 11” bell. I think it’s the throw out rod. I think the pressure plate I got might be throwing everything off and I need to get a longer rod to accommodate it.

They are new.

Yes that concerns me as well, I bought that adjuster rod (I can’t remember where) and the bag it came in said it was for a big block/small block 66/70 b body but it does seem very short. The adjuster rod it had before was a peice of all thread welded to a nut very poorly so I thought it would...