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Uhhh.... This is a common issue.

I saw a meme the other day with a Diesel Chevy truck with a homemade sign in the window: Chevy, Ford, Dodge or Import....It is US VS the electrics now! I'm sort of that way with the trucks on the road. I've always driven 2 door, regular cab trucks. I almost considered buying a quad...

I love the look of these trucks!

The side cladding pieces are supposed to cover this crease: In fact, it rides up to just below the bottom of the taillight lenses. See? I may have to put the rearmost panels on, then the small one on the fender....then run a string line front to back to have a guideline to put masking...

I often jump into projects with no clear plan on how to get to the end but I do know what I want it to look like when it is done. This is no different. I figure that these panels will need 3 or 4 coats of paint to cover. I've thought of installing the cladding then spraying the paint and clear...

The rear corner cladding on each side needed some work, the left side was the worst as you may recall... I made a cage out of 18 gauge sheet metal to hold it together while the panel bond/bumper repair epoxy set up. It will also provide rigidity in an area where it might be needed. This...

In total, there are 16 pieces that need to be prepped, primed, painted and clear coated. I sprayed most of the panels today with some high build primer reduced a bit with acetone. Most of the panels here are clean enough, they will just need a scuff and wipe and be ready for paint. I...

I could use an SRT-10 hood if I wanted. The place where I bought the cladding has 2 hoods but they want $1000 each. There was a scoop on the truck when I bought it new. It is a Mopar/Dodge part. This truck was dolled up with all sorts of dealer installed trinkets including a carpeted bed...

Life gets in the way... I'm easing back into this project after a few delays. I helped a buddy with a Tremec 5 speed swap, helped another with a Vintage A/C installation, did some stuff on my own cars and am now ready to get back to it. To recap: I have 16 pieces to prep, prime, paint and clear...

Dorks that are selling that REFUSE to state a price need a hard kick to the ***.

Funny...I was thinking $1000 as well. The car is complete but will need everything. The difference between restoring an A body and a B body is that the B has more aftermarket support while the A has a LOT more used parts in the pipeline. If you can piece together the car with clean used parts...

I picked the charcoal color out of a Year One catalog in 2002. I didn’t know whether it was an actual factory color or not. I just liked it.

A/T version brake pedals can be cut down to resemble Manual trans versions...I've done that.

Check this out. Three master cylinders. First one is 1 1/8” and meant for manual or power. Now look at the piston. You can see the machined recess around the inside. This is for the rubber grommet. Here is a 1.03 unit for power brakes. See no groove? The pushrod in the booster is...

If the G-12 guy was Dave, he was skilled but holy crap that guy would talk your ear off. Bump steer… I’ve read about correcting it by cold bending the steering arms on the lower ball joints. Whatever bump steer I have, I don’t feel it. Mark… YES. I have done the camber measurements with a...

The last high price for 1970 seats I saw was $1200 a couple years ago. I see guys trying to scalp people for ‘70 fenders too. Yes, I know that they are not being reproduced and that they are one year only. It just digs at me when people push too damned hard to squeeze every last nickle from a...

I remember that one time that I made a mistake. (Every dang day I make mistakes)

I have to really restrain myself to keep from blowing up at those people.

There is no O ring. The 3/8" steel tube is supposed to be a slight interference fit into the block.

Ha ha...Yeah, sure.... There is a member here that advertised a set of recovered '70 Charger bucket seats for some obscene price, something like $3600. I understand their rarity but scalpers piss off everyone.