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I have to disagree with you on something......I think you've made good progress on it during the time you originally posted till now. Many people or even shops tend to get burnt out on big projects as they go on, you're keeping at it and still getting stuff done. In my experience it's better...

By the looks of how you’re going now I think that story is going to be changing soon. I like seeing a methodical approach being taken when doing a car. You are starting with good bones now and working outward…… the way they should be done.

I haven't driven mine yet but, I'm curious as to how it will do performance wise. I think mine should be ok with all of what the factory tried to do to keep it from vapor locking. I will also have the original exhaust ( as in the original exhaust) and not headers

Im sure it was a concern for the engineers, are you running 3/8” fuel lines and a fuel separator off of your fuel pump like OEM did? I think the original thermoquad was also designed to help combat vapor lock, I’m sure the main body being “plastic” helps with temperatures also

That's what I was getting at. The 73 tank has 4 nipples for the vent/vapor lines to goto the fuel separator so if yours doesn't have them I'm going to say this isn't going to work for you. I am a little curious now how a 74 would be designed for the charcoal cannister. This system was...

Does your 74 tank have the 4 vent/vapor lines? I've never looked at a 74 tank

This car has less than 60k miles on it, parked in 1989 and never molested.

Good deal. That looks like what I will need. If you happen to see another set anywhere produced/dated late 1972 I would appreciate a shout out. I’ll start looking on eBay also. Thanks

I was curious if the versions did change thru the years, I was unsure. My car has the original on it and I have never seen another restored car with it. I honestly never paid enough attention to remember other cars thru out the years but once I bought my 73 I started to pay closer attention...

1973 GTX 440. What year is the engine you posted 71? I have the original "45" sticker on my brake booster if you would like to compare to the reproductions. I have seen a couple different version reproduced but never one like my original, not sure if they changed thru the years is why I ask...

Should the boots also be orange or were they black? They should be a Chrysler branded wire correct? Not like GM or AMC that used Packard wires. I've tried to find a good picture of an engine compartment from an original dealer advertisement, and I haven't found anything I could use as a good...

Were the original wires for a 73 & newer originally orange? I’ve been scratching my head trying to locate the correct wires for my 73 GTX. I’ve seen both black and orange with the correct part#.

Looks like you did pretty good with all of your pieces, lots of salvageable parts there.

Nice, I was thinking it would be worse than that underneath after seeing your initial posts. Your fenders were perplexing, hard to imagine why they got so bad, hopefully a few hours with a couple of hammers and dollies can improve them a lot. Glad to see it being done right

Did you find any more areas of concern?

I would agree with you on that also. I know everyone's view of "acceptable" condition varies but I would say if they were just solid body, non runners that were mainly complete they would be a good buy. Running and driving, definitely a very good buy. It's getting hard to find a clean bodied...

The best car to restore is always the most original car you can find. Buying a shiny car or a previously restored car will almost never work out the way you think it will. Pictures are deceiving and a talented bodyman can “polish a turd” or “put lipstick on a pig”. Unless you or someone who...

transmission and or torque convertor, gear ratio and car weight will need to be considered to properly make a choice. You don't want to go too big for your combo and have a total dog that's no fun to drive

LOL atleast the last GTX sunroof car with less than 60k miles