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Looking good, you are going about it in the right way

I bought the last two from AMD, the rear lower quarter panels about 4 to 5 years ago and have no plans to make more since not enough of a market to sell. In addition, my 73 also has front fiberglass fenders which might be impossible to find in this day and age, I bought those about 30 years...

Charger Greg is correct, and how strong is your drive shaft and tailshaft on your transmission. Consider everything!

The post with picture, says it all just from what you said.

Most have given good advise, by checking engine and transmission mounts. With car in park have you gotten underneath it and tried turning the driven shaft to see if any play from rear end or transmission end .also look at the u joints. If all looks good, check all suspension for something coming...

Go to your local car show and start asking, somebody will point u in the right direction.

If not so unsure what's it worth, why don't you get a appraisal done by a professional since it's worth some good coin, money well spent.

I agree with Dadsbee, get a mechanical gauge first to make sure you don't have an engine problem, with your oiling system.Since once your engine is warm and reads low, doesn't sound good from what u have said. Hopefully it's your sending unit.

Surely you have to laugh at this, a good one!

I don't drag race this car, just a fun car to drive, and I prefer racing ( only a couple of 100 feet) non mopars just to remind people how they performed back in the day. If I put this combination into an A body, it would have alot more top end.

I have a 73 roadrunner, the original 340 sits in the corner of the garage. The 340 in the car was punched out 40 thousands, at 11 to 1.I switched to a steel crank from cast shot peened, internal balanced now, I'm running EX 274 comp cam, with 3200 stall torque converter and 4:30 gears in rear...

Have you tested your new master cylinder to rule it out, even though it's new, could be bad. Try blocking off both lines coming from it and your pedal should be hard as a rock. If not, it's a bad one, this has happened to me. If it's good u have air in the system if everything else looks good.

The only problem is if you have a short in the system, your car will light up like a Roman candle. There's a reason why if you go to a higher amp alternator, you should increase the cable size to match that. Take it from an electrician.

I agree, installing the accumulator spring will soften your shifts, a fairly easy job. I haven't checked, but do a search on YouTube, much easier to watch a video than reading!

You should watch that video again, he did refer to using a fuseable link and what gauge size, inaddition he also said you can use alternative and one more thing he said he's not the expert. Like I said if you are worried about misinformation, post a video on YouTube and teach the young people...

Sorry pal, I haven't said much, hate to spoil your thought, I am an electrican by trade, I probably forgot more than you will ever know. Furthermore, You tube is a good tool, is great for someone that is learning.

Could of fooled me, how do you know about Jamie on Dead Dodge Garage?

Well why don't you make your own YouTube video yourself on that subject and see how people react?

Don't go to a bigger alternator, unless you up grade the wire coming off it, a good chance of creating a roman candle ! Better yet Dead Dodge Garage just put out a video on this subject on YouTube, as a matter of fact he's also a member on this site, he'll answer all of your questions. Check him...

Listen to the people who bought from firm feel, I bought a pair of torsion bars for my 73 Plymouth and very happy with results. I would buy again if I had from them, can't go wrong.