Search results for query: *

Been there, tried it. VHT leaves a crappy, uncontrollable finish. Eastwood or SEM has the best most consistent finish, and it's tough.

It's really best if you have a spare guage mount to get a better idea of the final outcome. Most important is to size the gauges correctly for the final appearance. I used Autometer gauges that are LCD backlit and they illuminate perfectly. Here's a pic. Due to the angle and the fact this was...

Why not just modify the original column by taking the shift collar off, grinding down the indicator and filling the spot where you removed it. I've done this for people on different brands of cars and if done properly it is unnoticeable. In one case the collar was rotated 180 degrees for a...

I've given some serious thought to your dilema and concluded that the 1 1/4 master should displace enough fluid to actuate the braking system provided the front caliper pistons aren't of a super-size. That being said, and providing there is no air in the system that only leaves two issues. First...

You may not have enough fluid displacement for all the cylinders in the braking system. I believe that's why you went with a larger bore master cylinder. Problem is, the larger the master bore, the harder it is to push the pedal and get enough force at the braking cylinders. How large are the...

Here you are. You'll need Adobe Acrobat to view and print. Just look down the page to "67 Coronet" http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=27

I just received my new PTC converter the other day and I am fully impressed with the quality. It's anti-ballooning, has a totally one piece milled connecting plate on the flex plate side and best of all not nearly as expensive as most other brands including the "off the shelve" brands. It's a...

Then I'd go back to the carbs and their setup. Unless you have a completely divided intake manifold, one of the tricks we used to use, in days gone by, was remove one carb and use a block-off plate in it's place. Although your single carb may see small in CFM's it's more than adequate to...

If as you say, the ignition system is new and timing correct, and carbs are rebuilt properly and set up correctly ( I assume you have twin carbs because you didn't specifically say so) I would look to the valve train. Could be the lifters and valve springs are not compatible with the lift and...

Well at least they work, albeit radically. Your problem sounds like a classic example of a bad ground but don't discount other issues like dirty bulb sockets which probably need a good inspection and cleaning. Inspect the bulbs closely for filaments that are loose or hanging inside the bulbs...

Before you do a downright stupid thing like de-tuning and selling off parts, toss it in and give it a go. You can always change the rear gear ratio cause it sounds as if it's got the juice, just not the economy. Who knows, you may like a stout engine in the car. If all else fails, maybe...

Absolutely excellent! "Any color you want as long as it's black." is my moto when it comes to cars and yours just stands out the way I like them. After seeing the pics I can only conclude that your a man of talent.

Obviously, cutting a hole in your hood is not something you should take lightly. "Measure twice" cut once comes to mind. Considering the fact that most Mopar engines sit offset to the right means the hole is not going to be centered according to the hood. I like the idea of the extended carb...

I run a 383 BB with 10:1 CR through a 22" rad with a 180 degree full flow stat and a 16 lb. rad cap and the engine runs between 180 - 185 all day. In your case, you're either making too much heat for the size of the cooling system or the cooling system will not dissipate the heat properly. Here...

You can buy aftermarket fittings for both the steering box and pump online in the reduced size. They come in two flavors - ORB or JIC ( which is the same as AN). I found mine with little difficulty on line. For the steering box you can also buy the top hydraulic return housing in reduced outlet...