Search results for query: *

Hey, any experience if the Holley in-tank fuel pump modules such as part 12-314 (255 LPH) or 12-384 (350 LPH) read the fuel level correct at the gauge? Or are they the same as the standard chinese fuel sending units that will only read about half full with a filled up tank?!

Exactly. What about the Stealth 4150 with its 870CFM rating vs the Sniper 2? My fuel line routing with the Stealth would be exactly the same as now with the current carb.

Well, you mean I should rather step up to the Stealth 4500 or Super Sniper 1250? The Sniper XFlow would be an option with 800hp? It just seems to be discontinued. Not available anywhere but Holley still lists it on their website. I understand, the Hyperspark ignition would be most benefical...

Hey! Considering swapping from carb to EFI on my BB stroker 68 B-body. It's a 489 stroker with 10.5:1 CR, ported aluminum cylinder heads, hydr flat tappet in/ex 242/246 110 LSA, headers, 2.5" x-pipe, EDE Performer RPM intake, full MSD ignition (dist, coil, CD), electric fans, electric fuel...

I connected the external power supply instead of the battery and tested it in car. All the gauges were still powered like when the car drives getting 5V throught the dash limiter.

I bought the MeterMatch in hope to finally solve my fuel gauge reading. Repop sending unit and original (standard) fuel gauge. Gauge always showed half when tank was full but never full. I am now at my third attempt syphoning the fuel tank to calibrate my Metermatch. I can't make it to read...

I am aware of this, probably not a good idea to try a rope seal on a smooth crank?!

I do not have the knurls

What about the thing to only use a rope seal if the crank has the "knurls"? Or can I use it on a smooth crank as well? Think of trying the rope seal, had no luck with the 2-piece Viton and no luck with the fastfish seal. I have a smooth crank.

I absolutely agree with you. I prefer the stock look without add-on gauges too. My last option will be an aftermarket tach. The idea with the diode sounds good, gonna try this. Will let you know

Tach signal is coming from the MSD. Seems like there's no real solution: Either have a factorey OE tach and use the MSD tach adapter which will result in weird inaccurate rpm readings. Or have the reproduced tach that can handle the MSD signal but you don't know before if your particular rep...

Got this answer from the Holley/MSD tech support: "We have found some inconsistencies with the OER type tachs, they seem to be really sensitive to the signal. We've seen where they operate normally, some do not function at all, and others that seem to work as you stated. Sometimes the 8920 tach...

Hi all, I have a 68 standard gauge dash with a tachometer. Full electronic MSD ignition setup. Hooked up the tach per MSD instructions. The tach seems like a reproduction (maybe OER). I can spot the green printed circuit board. So it should NOT need a tach adapter at all. Without it shows a...

I did all the measuring and "mods" to my factory retainer (advised in this thread and from other forums), double checked clearances... Really don't know what I can do here else. It just seems like either you are lucky and/or lucky and get the right seal too. @Doorkicker I was specifically...

I am sick of it..Viton seals: leak, fastfish one piece: leak. Used the factory retainer. Any successful attempt on installing a rope seal with engine in the car? I know there's a video on youtube doing one with crank on an engine stand..but in car another story.

This is great news! I just looked up and when I bought the car it had the 1 prong NSS installed, transmission is a '69. So I should go for the 3 prong NSS. Will try that!

@dvw I need to clarify: My engine does not crank in P, that's the problem. #1 There's no slop in the linkage, everything is checked and all parts are new. #2 As stated before it is a column shift, no floor console brackets to hit. #3 The rooster comb is the exact same as before. It has no cracks...

Dug this out. I have the same problem. Column shift, fully restored car (all bushings are new), electric new, I even changed the NSS switch (both were fine). I have a 1-prong NSS. I have adjusted the linkage several times like instructed in the FSM. On the first start it fires straight up in...

I have the middle rooster and switch! It is always working when I re-adjust the linkage. Today went for a ride, first start in P no problem. Starting again after a few accelerations, starts only in N again

Both switches I have are original Mopar!