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if you read about the 440 HP in the 67 article when it came out they talked about the small ports in the 915 heads and small valves compared to the big block Chevy heads. they said how much torque it made 480 lbs and coming in at a low 3200 rpms and peak HP at a low 4800 rpms. made a great...

had more than double didn't keep them when I was younger. 3 more Hughes, 4 purple shaft cams 2 Crower and 2 more crane 222-234 and 214-222 I think it was. plus many more.

in 1967 the pin height was 1.99 and in 1968 on the piston pin height was 2.030 to make up for the 906 open chamber heads with more cc's. so yes 80-85 in 67 and 50-55 in 1969 in the hole. yes your right never what the factory said they were.

don't want to get into a big camshaft discussion on what camshaft to use. 222-234 is almost 2 sizes bigger than stock. 12 degree spread hurts low end power compared to 4-6 degree spread. a bigger spread on exhaust will keep your power from dropping off after peak horsepower. so if your peak HP...

yes my 67 383 was 75-80 that I measured fast with feeler gauges. what does that have to do with my quote on a 1969 440 deck height ?

just think how good it would run with the right cam. you can always spin the tires what matters is what power it makes after that. why would you run a cam with a 12 degree spread on a 114 or 115 LSA ?

had the crane in a 67 RT years ago in a rebuilt engine when I bought the car. stock exhaust manifolds 3.23 gears. no bottom end. it would pull somewhat in the upper rpms. it ruined the torque of the 440. stock HP cams were 212-221 duration @50. yes 10 degrees more than stock. the crane cam is on...

the stock piston is about .051 in the hole plus .020 steel head gasket = .071. adding a .039 head gasket plus .051=.090 in the hole. does it really matter for quench if it's .071 or .090 ? I am thinking if it's more than .055 in the hole does .071 or .090 really matter ? what I heard more than...

the stock cam has a wide LSA from the factory so if you change cams you would need more duration. keep the stock cam with the stock motor.

no pull one on each side

when it stalls pull a couple spark plugs at least you would know if it is lean or rich.

I was wrong there is no servo in the 66 trans. the rebuilt 1968 is in. it has the red clutch discs probably over kill. we put the b&m shift kit using the heavy duty directions. shifts at 4800 rpms at wot. the main thing when I manually shift it say at 5200 rpms it goes right into gear.

My 66 still had the course spline 19. You were right I was reading at the 1966 valve bodies were a little bit different something about the rear Servo in a 66 transmission

the new one is a 1968 and the old one is a 1966

what timing you have. I have another trans being built this week and he is going to tear the old trans apart to see what was going on with it. the old one would shift at 4500 rpms into 2nd and 3rd unless I put the shifter into 1st gear till say 4000-4500 rpms and upshift to 2nd and then it would...

neither one is good but the Howards is better than the Crower. too much spread on both between intake and exhaust plus on 112 LSA. something close to 224-230 110 LSA would be a torque street cam good to 5200 rpms .

my 67 Rt with manual steering is set to stock specs. we have yellow warning signs for curves up ahead one of the warning signs shows 35 MPH and I drive through at 50 MPH. so why would I knock myself out going crazy over caster ? I like my older cars for their characteristics if I want a modern...

put a rpm performer intake on and pick up 30 HP.

I had that one and it was way too tight. they were going to make me up one in-between the two but I ended up getting one from ptc and couldn't use the factory 11" cause I needed the 19 spline one.

the factory 11" like you have is the best your going to get. I put them in my 440 in place of the 12" stock one. I used Hughes 2000 rpm and pulled it out to much flashing and loose feeling. unless you get more into the upper rpm stalls