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beg ,borrow, buy or steal another carb to eliminate if it is the carb or not.

I guess if you can out talk someone you're right. maybe you're having a bad day like David R. and big Joe 2 times engine masters winner can't Dyno an engine after doing hundreds of Dyno tests.

when you do research do both sides don't be hard heads. have you heard of speed talk ? have you heard of big Joe Sherman ?

strong word for not doing any homework on the subject. it would be a cheap try putting in an older type plug with the right heat range with a .035 gap.

they have problems with a stock ignition system on older cars. plus heat ranges could be tricky on those plugs. again what is the plug gap we see in the photo.

what is the gap on the plugs it looks more than .035. I would go back to the stock type plug and not the needle tip that has been known to cause problems.

for general motor cars they make a tool which I used on my nail head Buick. it cuts a groove in the lifter bore. you put the groove in a certain location. only down side you lose about 1 lb of oil pressure at idle. I can't see much good in the groove lifter which rotates and not always over the...

it was just a street converter they made me.

I would still start out with 1 size leaner carb setting. I didn't think anyone runs champion plugs anymore.

The air fuel mixture will change with the new heads. most times with a dual plane an open spacer is better.

when the seller says I don't have to sell it I will tell them I don't have to buy it either. then with a high price ad saying serious buyers only I tell them how about being a serious seller.

what rpm did you shift at with your 484 cam ? when was peak HP and TQ coming in at with this last build.

cut open the gas filter check for rust.

you're hung up on HP and should be hung up on torque for the street. give me 465-475 HP and 550 TQ for the street. you keep saying larger lift cam and vacuum but more lift does not hurt vacuum. advertised duration effects vacuum and so does LSA not lift.

how about a broken tooth on the timing gear. broken valve springs ,bent push rod. might have to take the valve covers off. you said it happened after getting on it.

I have to re-think that. like pr heads said your in the ball park. his engine with header=482-528 then minus at least 25 HP and 30 TQ would be about 457 HP and 498 TQ without headers. yours is making 450 HP and 490 TQ very close. I know you have a bigger cam but with exhaust manifolds your not...

never seen a Dyno tests about LSA and exhaust manifolds.there are tests with a split duration with more exhaust duration but never LSA tests. or are just saying that you like it better.

ok 272x.82=223. so his old 484 cam had about 233 duration at .050. 241x.82=233. about one size bigger than the 228 in there now. the big advantage of the 484 was the tight 108 LSA that even Chrysler knew back then to go for a tight LSA. what hurts is its low lift.

Holley 2 barrels are rated different more like 950 cfm but still should be good enough for your set up. if you had the stock air filter and air cleaner on it needs an inch taller air filter to not hurt air flow and HP.

I would give it another try with the right push rods and valve springs costing you power. are you sure both vacuum secondaries on the end carbs are wide open. is the timing really where it is supposed to be at. what was the air fuel ratio. even 470 HP and 520 TQ wouldn't be bad.