Search results for query: ammeter gauge bypass

Been trying to read into this as I’m rewiring things and I’ve seen different posts on this but still don’t have a clear idea… All that I have to do is create a wire that goes from the alt stud to the starter relay, and things are ‘safer’? It’s been running fine as is, I’m just rewiring things...

The red wire that is continuous through the bulkhead plug was part of the ammeter bypass I did in 2015. I changed the instrument panel too, to a style that used a voltmeter. The 12 gauge wire has a fusible link then is connected to the starter relay. This powers up the interior. NO charging...

If you want to run a 10 gauge wire to the battery or the post on the starter relay, you'd use a 14 gauge fusible link. The method I am aware of in selecting is whatever size wire you use, subtract 4. So, 12 gauge would be 16, 10 is 14, 8 would be 12 etc. You will get many responses whether to...

I'm not really good with electrical so I'm learning as I go. After installing the harnesses I blew the link and so... I became very nervous about proceeding, I didn't want to screw anything up. I reached out to the local Mopar club, but no dice. I don't have any friends that know this stuff...

Ok, that makes sense, my battery isn’t exactly topped off so it sounds like I’m ok there. It’s a ‘69 charger and putting it together I replaced the engine harness and did the MAD electrical amp gauge bypass, and other then the usual issues with the bulkhead, the rest of it was ok. The keys...

I had wiring that was bad internally. Insulator looked OK, wire inside was discolored with green spots here and there. Try rewiring with new connectors and larger gauge wire and bypass the ammeter. The general Idea on older truck.

I’ve went completely over this thread again, learn something new everyday and ate some crow along the way. Some things have changed like the likes of led lights. With the led lights you no longer need to do the famous headlight relay upgrade. My LEDs on dim only pull a tad over 3 amps and with...

That is WAY over my head. I know almost nothing about wiring. I did install some type of "ammeter bypass" a few years ago so power doesn't go through the amp meter (I think that's what I did) and it goes through a really big fuse instead (100A I think?). It is a 1970 plymouth road runner with...

Disconnect the gauge.

First place I'd look is the bulkhead connector where the alternator wire passes thru, and see if its melted; next place to check is the ammeter. There is probably a poor or melted connection somewhere causing a voltage/amp drop. With running accessories like the fuel injection, sound system...

69 Road Runner with stock ammeter gauge. Car running great until I went to start it today and got one "click" then nothing. No headlights etc. Battery OK and have power to fuseable link (engine side) however No power from fuseable link to firewall connection. Tried to short out starter...

@toolmanmike has it right!!! Bypass "ammeter" all together or run new heavy gauge wire THROUGH connector. My 71 went up in flames, did what toolmanmike did, ran it right to "ammeter", no further issue, this was in 1981-82. . Replacing entire harness on my 1972 build, not risking electrical...

It’s a 12 gauge wire, I’m sorry for the confusion. One guy recommended doing away with the 12 gauge alt feed wire and running a 10 gauge alt feed jumper wire and bypass the bulkhead and tie it straight in to the ammeter wire that I now have the 12 gauge alt feed wire tied in to. I don’t know how...

That would be considered a modified Chrysler charging system, then power connections can be made most anywhere between the battery and the alternator without the risk of overloading original connections/wiring, you lose the function of the ammeter however and the information it would provide...

If that is what he has he should disconnect both blue and green wires, then the drain would most likely go away Should also bypass the bulkhead connection of the charge wires. 1 the ammeter in our cars is not rated to 100 amps 2 the connectors are a known weak spot on the cars with stock 40/60...

I had the exact thing in my 72 RR. Field wire to the alt was bad inside the insulation under the brake booster. I had to literally stab the wire with my tester 10 places to find it. Wire looked perfectly fine on the outside.

as usual, you never take your time to read, but just to attack. i never say is my idea: i have life frustrations, but your personal life must be even worst!!!

This is the age-old debate about ammeter bypass. Many people don't like the idea of all the charging current going through the bulkhead connector (twice) and the ammeter. Many other people will tell you that it's fine so long as you have clean contacts. A modern alternator can easily triple...

Yeah. I mainly want to know if the initial surge on the gauge is a problem before I go full Nacho ammeter wiring fix. I’m pushing 60 and expect to see my gauge follow the turn signal blink at a stop. It’s part of the experience since that’s all we had back then.

You need to verify and correct the 40+ amp battery charging first, the OER gauge may not be that actuate, actual current may not be anywhere near that. A healthy fully charged battery is not going to draw anything close to 40 amps to recover from a start-up. Again, as mentioned several times...