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Nevermind, I tested the old one to see if it was a ground issue and now the old works just fine. Cars are fun sometimes.

What's a decent but not crazy expensive switch to use? I bought a $20 switch off eBay and surprise surprise, it's garbage. The hazard switch is all kinds of confused. It blinks left and right alternatively when you push left or right, puts the hazards on with the switch off, etc.

Are you saying the turn signal switch or is that something else I'm not familiar with?

Because both filaments work (one with lights on and the other with the blinker) makes me think it's not a ground issue.

I noticed my brake lights were out on the passenger side (both bulbs). Driving lights come on no problem. There are two plugs under the gas fill so I thought that harness might have an issue. I tried the blinkers, which use the brake filament, and they work just fine. Things that work: -...

That sucks, but at least you got it sorted out. I did have to massage my tunnel a little bit to the right of the gas pedal to get proper clearance.

I wonder if the RMS mounts have the motor sit lower. I followed the Tremec recommendations and didn't need to cut the tunnel.

I bought the Holley sensor thinking it would be plug and play with the Holley harness. That would make sense wouldn't it?

I forgot I used a Holley MAT sensor, part number 554-121. So it will be different from what you're using

It's a metripack 150.2 plug. Not a 120 or a 150.1. I bought both of those first (thanks Holley....). I bought the plug and the pins from Custom Connector Kits for about $3. May want to do a visual confirmation on the style though first.

I used the Mopar one I believe and then clipped the plug and spliced in the correct one.

Trying to solve a window rattle issue on my front side window today. Found a nice pile of trash in the bottom of the door. Also it appears that I'm missing this hardware. I'm also missing the rear most one as well. Not sure how The glass still moves correctly with 2 out of 3 missing. The...

Here's a quick finished picture.

I found this tip on YouTube. Cobalt coupe seatbelt guides (2005 to 2010) fit the Procor seats as long as you switch sides and drill an extra hole. They're out of production and I didn't want to fork out $110 for a set on eBay. I picked these up at my local pull-a-part for about $10. I'll...

The Wesco belts have something similar. They also have a plastic sleeve to cover that part up.

Do you have a better picture of that? Is it built into the seat?

I don't know the angle. I did get a longer day length too keep the belt off my neck. I still need a belt guide at the shoulder. I'll probably end up 3D printing something or modifying an existing design.

I'm using Wesco. They're OK. The retractors could stand to be a bit stronger, but I've seen that with other aftermarket belts so maybe it's a common issue. Also with the modern style release button, the male portion blocks the button some so it makes it more difficult to unbuckle than it...

A couple of minor updates: I got my shifter arm welded back up. Forgot to take a picture after it was welded. I had to modify the fuel tank float to actually read empty which required removing the sending unit. At the time they said it was OK not getting a reseal kit, presumably because the...

Yeah my SRV module didn't touch, but it might as well have it was so close. I unceremoniously used a hammer and some touch up spray paint to make a little clearance. Sounds like you're doing it the right way.