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My personal opinion is to keep the front and rear suspension stock or modified stock, its actually a pretty good design with everything new and some upgrades along the way, I believe Kerndog has a good write up on doing his 70 Charger. I would leave the aftermarket suspension systems to people...

Another option which is the way that I went about it is to modify the original K member to big block specs and you can use the proper stock big block spool mounts from 73 and up. This is an article from Big Block Dart, I believe you move the drivers side frame mount back 1 3/16 and move the...

Mancini Racing has the rope seals, part #MRE5297 Mancini Rear Main Seal, Rope

Most engines have the rear main seal bore machined into the rear main cap and block so the bore is theoretically perfectly round but on big block mopars the upper part of the seal bore is machined into the block but the lower bore is a cast aluminun piece that is machined seperate from the...

My personal opinion is to reuse the original rear main housing and install a rope seal thats your best bet on sealing up the rear main seal the first time around, if you are going the viton lip style seal route you really should mock everything up on the engine stand and without crankshaft...

He's definitely learning from one of the the most skilled guys out there with alot of years of experience!

To me the BBD two barrel carb isn't that great of a carb for your application, if all your looking for is fuel economy and not much reserve power the BBD fits the bill. I wouldn't use the 600 Holley carb, one option is I would look into is a factory style Thermoquad setup or possibly run a...

This is the body filler I used recently on my 69 Charger and probably the best price you will find is at Napa under the Napa Martin Senour line. If you ask for the Evercoat #100125 it will cost you about 50 dollars more for the same product. https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/MS_FE125 I know it...

Your 3.23 gears is probably to tall of a gear for that camshaft, also what convertor are you running? A stock converter most likely won't be very compatable with that camshaft either.

BHJ makes a fixture to be able to do that. Lifter-Tru Starter Kit [LTK-XXXX] : BHJProducts.com, High Performance Engine Builder Tooling and Harmonic Dampers: +1 (510)797-6780

Yes there was a light green 68 Hemi Charger that was originally sold here in Vegas and I believe the original owner still has it. I remember talking to him probably a year or two ago when he had it at MATS.

Smooth part goes toward combustion chamber.

This is listed on Moparts website on 11-28-23 on differential for sale, "jcc" is the persons identity. Sorry I can't get a link for it, here is the ad. This might be the last one new ever offered, 742 Style, PN P4876445 I already have three others, best to let it go to somebody that can use...

A possible option that I seen discussed not too long ago was to use domed hi-compression pistons from a 383 (4.25 bore) mopar, you would have to calculate compression ratio to see if that would work for you depending on what heads you are using, also with this setup you most likely wouldn't have...

Those neon spark plugs have a 3/4 reach where the factory big blocks use a 3/8 reach spark plug, alot of the aftermarket aluminum big block heads use the 3/4 reach spark plugs. I believe Accel used to make "header" spark plugs with the smaller 5/8 hex.

A friend of mine has a 69 Charger with the factory power 4 wheel drum brakes and that car is scary when u barely touch the brake petal it will about send you through the windshield, I believe his problem is something is screwed up in the power booster unit itself.

For Sale - Big Block Engine - 3rd Quarter There is one for sale on Moparts website posted 8-14-23

Do you have some pics of the top surface of the mouldings?

I wouldn't use that tool to remove the rear window, If your careful you can do it but its very easy to crack the glass that way. The way I did mine was to take some small wirefeed wire, mine was .025" and cut probably 5 or 6 feet off and then from inside the car in the middle of the glass poke...

Usually if you can slide the shafts around somewhat there is too much clearance in the clutch pack setups. Or the clutch packs aren't setup properly? I believe Dr Diff has an exploded view on how they are to be setup.