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1969 Plymouth Other Roadrunner | eBay Show him this... 69 Hemi B5, granted it's a RR not a Bee, but comparable.

Is that the factory board? I thought they were on cardboard.

Yes, they should come with a thrust button, but if you get it from some random supplier or used it may not. Not a big deal to install one either. The 3rd member doesn't have to come apart. Yes, with the green bearings I would remove the thrust button, because there is a chance of extra side load...

There are no seals for the axle bearings just a gasket for the 5-bolt flange. There are on the other hand "inner" axle seals that are very easy to change, they go inside the housing ends. No need to press axle bearings on or off. It is really an easy operation to change out the 3rd member...

This just popped up. Facebook

ok thanks. Yeah the stuff I need is gone then.

How much for the inside rear window trim and the package tray trim piece?

I didn't know that. I had to find one years ago and it was like finding hen's teeth! lol I also just read your guide you posted above, it would have saved me some typing... Thanks for your detailed write up from years ago, I used it several times when I was restoring my Bee

That part is a very tough part to find and no one re-pops it, yes it staples on to the cardboard, there should be existing holes where it was stapled, unless it's NOS. you can use a staple gun to get the staple through then just bend the ends/legs over like a normal staple through paper. Once...

The tach housing grounds to the dash cluster. The studs with a "G" are grounds to the tach housing. + is keyed ignition and the other one is the tach signal. Make sure the signal wire is on the negative side of the coil. I have a re-pop one as well and mine took a **** after 500 miles. So now I...

It probably goes open hot. Just run a jumper wire across and feed the coil the full 12 volts, it won't hurt anything to run with the full 12 volts for a little while to test things.

Mine is 929 with a 136, so for sure it is B18.

You can use the manual switch but the car will start without the clutch pressed down. That only difference is the grounding path. Either through the relay or through the clutch switch.

I do have some old pictures of it, from the owner before Ramine. I fully restored the car, when I got it, it was a roller. I guess he has the original tail panel (with the dealer logo) on it (I cannot read it from the photo I have) . The car came out of Virginia. He also has some documentation...

That would be awesome. I own the V-code super bee he has some parts from. I would really appreciate it. I have been trying to reunite the transmission to the car. Thanks Jeff Hammer

Nice transmission, I all most fell off my chair. I am looking for 0A136175, yours is 0A141563, so close. Last known location of my original transmission is in Maryland by a guy named Ramine Ramine who is a friend of racer brown, but I cannot get a hold of him anymore to get him to sell it back...

Here is my 70 V-code, two tone, track pack.

Look through the ventury and see if it sticks up about an 1/8/of an inch, you maybe able to push it down through there instead of sticking something in it to pull it out.

Talk with Dwayne Porter from Porter Racing heads in Vermont. Nothing wrong with stroking the engine and getting a lighter rotating assembly. Dwayne can spec you out a killer combination that is proven and works with headers or exhaust manifolds. I like the sleeper look, as for the engine no one...