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Here is a place in MN. I seen with a Google search. [email protected] Looks like a nice full service coatings shop ?

For me the correct first step would be to ID the spindles as far the correct or original application. Then match your rotor and caliper to that. Shims behind the races and spacers behind the rotor to me does not sound like a good plan. I understand working with what you have but on the...

Something is way off, my WAG is wrong rotors. The way they sit you could never get a dust cap on. Not sure why anyone would shim a race ?

I used 15 - 40 Rotella for years until they cut back on the zinc content also. Last few years I have switched to the Lucas 10 - 40 hot rod oil. When i did the cam and lifter swap i used a set of old oem springs and Joe Gibbs break in oil.

I have to think the speaker would mount from the bottom. Screws from the top down into the speaker frame with a factory style J clip or nut. Mounting the speaker from the top would not allow the shelf cover board to lay flat.

The post above about making a reference mark is very good advice. After many years I still do that with a piece of chalk ect. Mark the base flange of the distributor and follow onto the engine . Also after moving the distributor remember to tighten the clamp before a test drive.

There are different diameter pulleys for A/C and non A/C cars, also different water pump impeller vane count between the two. Not sure if this is a factor on your car but could reduce coolant flow at higher rpms. Just a shot in the dark.

For a original style stamp steel cover cork is the best in my opinion. Make sure the cover flanges / edges are true , seal the gaskets to the covers with some regular old gasket sealer , napa , Indian head ect. Don't over tighten. That's what works for me.

As far as the lazer, test at thermostat housing. Also the top or inlet of radiator and the bottom or outlet. If your radiator is cooling , fan draw ok ect. You should see aprox 30 to 40 degree drop in temps between the inlet and outlet.

Are you leaving room for coolant to expand ? You need your level at aprox 1 inch down when cold. Also like posted above check the actual temp with a lazer temp gauge. Possible sticky thermostat ?

Hold on now, all is not lost. Sounds like you buddy has a good start on a parts stash, Now he has a parts car also. Now it's time to find that body that does have the title.

I would follow / trace that wire if the stereo is gone and see were it is going / ran in the car.

If you rule out the engine. I had a rattle i chased for some time , it ended up one of my flowmaster muffs had came apart inside. Pretty easy to check once your onto it. Slap each muffler with your hand.

We worked on body steel from the 30s models to present day late models. Hammer dolly, cut , weld , shrink and yes the steel has changed over each decade some what. 30s into 50s is pretty good stuff, 60s was still a decent heavy gauge but the makeup was different, you could tell welding and...

:thumbsup: Congrats

Did you do a cam break in before the 12 mile drive ? If you still have a lifter or two ticking you may want to pull the covers. Roll the engine around and check the rockers on each cyl. Looking for any loose ones without preload.

:thumbsup: Looks nice Mike.

My 67 has no A/C , thought about adding it more than once. If I ever do it will be a complete kit all from one vendor. I think that will be the best chance of ending up with a working set up. With only 1,500 to 2,000 aprox miles per year it is hard to talk myself into it. Windows down , floor...

There are some long and short hooks, not just the handle. I have a 66 C body ( Fury ) safety hook that is shorter ( on the scalper ) than my 67 B body.

This is a 68 satellite we did for a customer few years back F8 . He kept the 318 / 904 in it. But wanted all top edge trim gone. Did not add any clone emblems ect. Still had satellite on the glove box and fenders. Typical Midwest b body job, qts & inner tubs, rear rails, trunk pan. Rear cross...