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Nice, 153 mph :thumbsup: I would check the date code on the rubber. :lol:

Welcome Mike from Guthrie co.

I was running 7.50s & 60s in the Early 80s but that was in the 1/8 with a set of 5.67s behind a 289/302 you would have felt sorry for if you heard the rpms :lol:

Didn't the Shubeck ones have a problem with the ceramic face flaking off ?

Damn, sorry to see that and glad your ok. Just thinking here but I would not think you should have to hunt down parts. That should be the insurance companies job. That and the fact you can use any shop you choose for the work.

It will just take a few times to get the hang of it. You will get used to how far your drivers fender & door is off the lift post. Do not hang your head out or try to open the door and look while moving.

RIP , Bob

Make sure to set your air gap with the provided gauge. New rotor never hurts. Make sure yours is under the cap with the manet ring. ( yes I have forgot to stick a rotor on lol ) Yes bypass the ballast resistor. The different pertronix models use different ohm rated coils. Your ohm number should...

You got to love this place. :thumbsup:

Prayers for your family.

He has got better , I think we wore him down finally. :lol: I turned o n my speel check just fir him.

We had a BendPak 9000 4 post drive on in our shop for over 10 years. 220 volt, used everyday. Replaced the Deadman switch once and the cables once. We lubed every moving part once a month and oiled the cables twice a year. If their other models are like ours they are good.

Here in the midwest we prefer the Floyd R Turbo style.

:thumbsup:

X 2 on the Pertronix set. Also if your distributor has worn out the bushings you can exchange it for a recon at most auto parts stores if your not stuck on numbers or rebuild yours and then add the pertronix.