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The factory service manual helps. It’s actually not too hard in a b-body. You remove your heater box and it’s right there & easy to replace

How many speeds do you have when you turn on your wipers? That will answer your question

Your master cylinder was likely replaced at some point & it’s likely the correct replacement master cylinder (it looks correct). That exact master cylinder is available at Autozone, Advance, O’Reilly, NAPA, etc

What year?

It’s called “belt line molding” I believe, along top of doors o the outside

Your stater(s) are getting hot. Electrical resistance goes up with heat. Try header wrap & wrapping the stater in heat shield also. Additionally, you could add a timing retard while cranking. A MSD multiple retard box does this

I haven’t trued it yet. I had considered reversing my home made diode. The headlight buzzer has never worked in my car since 40+ yrs. Hopefully I will have time to work on it this weekend….so many projects

I “think” somebody used to sell partial lower quarters behind the wheel for 68-70….I “think”

Don’t give up. Leave it closed and keep looking for parts.

Probably too low of a stall (?)

Yes, the buzzer has 3 pins and the buzzer works with the key. The problem I have is that the buzzer doesn’t work when I leave the headlights on. It looks like the headlights & key use the same buzzer. The headlight wiring is much more complex with a diode & more wires

Yes, I had felt and it was still in good shape. For the tacking stop at the back bow, I used rubber door protector strips pop riveted to the bow

70 road runner rally dash A01 light group (if that matters). 1. I got my “key in” warning buzzer working, but the buzzer doesn’t go off if I leave my headlights on. 2. I installed a home-made headlight buzzer diode How do I diagnose & repair the headlights on warning buzzer? I have the factory...

Driver side (front & back) is one part number and the Passenger side (front & back) is a different part number

They are different. I’m not sure “how”, but the 70 b-body rotors are a 1-year rotor and we’re SUPER hard to find a few years back (maybe reproduced now???)

The factory service manual isn’t very clear in this circuit vs what I see in my car. I appreciate your help

The only “tack strips” are at the back bow (just above the rear glass) and where the top attaches to the body. The top is glued/clamped by trim on the header (bow at windshield). Everything else is connected to the top mechanism (metal frame) and moves together. If you added extra tacking...

I don’t know your exact answer, but here is what I learned when I was looking for a “six pack/Hemi” pan…..you need to make sure the pan & oil pickup are made by the same company. When I tried to use mix & match pan and pickup, it didn’t fit & the pan wouldn’t seat

My senders have all been threaded & the “L” connector pushes on. I squeeze my connectors with pliers if they get loose