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It "sounds" like you might have a short (exposed wires) coming from the turn signal switch and/or ignition switch leading down to the two big plugs at the bottom of the steering column inside the car. The connectors often get hot & melt too.

1. No 2. Yes

Check your grounds brother...it's cheaper

That is not working properly. A good place to start looking is the turn signal wiring to see if any of the wires are melted together. You will need to remove a small metal tray (two small screws) along the bottom of the steering column, or better yet, just start looking near the plug at the...

The horn switch is a simple contact switch. The black wire that goes to the horn switch should honk the horn when grounded (center of steering column is a convenient ground). For horn switches, I've just lightly sanded/cleaned the touching surfaces myself.

I know nothing about fuel injection..... but.... I recommend you start with a factory wiring harness & a factory service manual & modify the wiring as needed for your fuel injection (assuming some wiring harness isn't available off the shelf????). As far as eliminating the ballast resistor, in...

Just a guess, but are the wires hi/med/low/park, etc going to the correct place? Maybe a wire color on the harness mixed up?

I'm no HEI expert, but you need to have power from Ignition/Run and Ignition/Start going to your coil....both of them...or you get exactly what you describe

rich fouled

Based on what you describe, it sounds like your ignition switch inside your column is worn out (the electrical contacts damaged).

Correct. If it fits a 383, it fits a 361. ALSO, there used to be some adapters available that would allow you to run a 440 (RB) distributor on 361 as well. I'm no expert on Petronix, but if that's the setup that goes completely inside your distributor, then I think that's your only choice if...

OK, stupid question....did you run wires off the battery directly to the electric fan(s) to make sure the fan(s) isn't going bad?

Then it's a short in the dash circuit board itself

Short in the rheostat?

Maybe you "skipped a tooth" if you have plastic gears on the upper timing chain gear and the got worn. However, I wouldn't jump to that conclusion. How old is that is that gasoline? Maybe put in fresh gas and try to reset timing using the timing light and the vacuum advance blocked off...

wiring diagram. Figure out what gets power from where

If it's getting hot, I believe that means you still have a bad connection. Some ideas off the top of my head: 1. aluminum heads 2. stainless steel intake bolts 3. cable partially broken inside where you can't see

1. You will be using the ballast resistor wiring 2. To get your "key on" hot wire, take BOTH the blue and the brown wire leading into the ballast resistor, splice them together, and connect them to the hot wire of the MSD (not the big red wire that goes directly to the battery, the smaller hot wire)

Correct on the horn. My suggestion (in general) 1. Disconnect horn wire at horn itself so you don't go nuts. Each time you do something, touch that wire to the horn and see if it "beeps". 2. Remove horn button cover 3. Disconnect black ground wire (small needle nose pliers) from horn button...

And check the grounds again....maybe put in a temporary ground wire on the socket