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“Might” be the blue ignition wire (?). The spade connector was only 1/2 way in….so “maybe” Update - that wasn’t it. Engine still cuts out

It’s not the coil. Car drove fine for 30-40 minutes, then really started cutting out bad with backfiring. Engine & dash wiring were replaced 5 yrs ago Heads were recently off I checked the bulkhead blue wire from the engine side & it seems tight. It’s sealed in that wire only, so I can’t push...

Thanks. Please explain “match the ECU”? I just put an Autozone coil on there last night (all that was available) and stuck my MSD Blaster coil in the trunk)

So, you don’t think it’s possible it’s the coil based on my description? 1. It’s an old MSD 6AL (at least 10 yrs) 2. Vacuum advance not used Does anyone know the correct coil ohm rating of the top of your head? Also, any idea what my relictor gap should be? Thanks everyone! I’m trying to drive...

What exactly about the bulkhead disconnect? I did put an Autozone coil in there today. The MSD Blaster was really hot when I took it out (1/2 hour after car turned off)

70 Road Runner, 440, Mopar electronic distributor, MSD-6AL, MSD Blaster coil, no ballast resistor. Last weekend I had a cough out of the carburetor. Today I had the engine cut out 3 times for about 1-second going down the highway with one backfire out the tailpipe. Fuel pressure was good &...

My mistake. Put yours on a grinder and shorten it a little bit at a time

I don’t, but I have an idea. Lay one little tack weld on the “short” switch you have to make it longer

Is there a rotor inside the distributor? While the cap is off, crank the engine and see if the distributor turns? (distributor drive). There’s a trick to check the coil - unplug center ignition wire from distributor and place end really close (not touching) ground. Unplug 2-prong distributor...

Amps matter. You need a new battery

I have found that for a wide variety of cars, the sockets are the same and only the length of the black wire is different. I’ve got late 60’s (?) fender pigtails on my ‘70 hood

I’m not sure. I’ll have to look. It’s been that way 10 yrs or more. Why is a “shunt”? (I’m not an electrical whiz)

Thanks! Follow up question - I did a basic ammeter bypass years ago (100A in-line fuse from alternator I believe ?), so my ammeter doesn’t “really” work anymore. Should I still tap into the alternator???

1. Made me look - I’m only seein A-body kick panels for speakers, not B-bodies 2. I’m adding A LOT of electrical stuff the “correct” way this year. I’m installing relays with direct battery power & tapping into (no wire cutting) the fuse block for a on/off signal

Dead short somewhere in the steering column would be my first guess

I think you’ve got wires crossed. I suggest you pull off the driver’s kick panel. There’s a plug there that included the tail/brake lights. Start looking for melted wires/terminals there and cross check wires with a meter vs the wiring diagram

I see no reason why JB Weld wouldn’t work

How does it attach? The side of the block seems like the place if possible

One is a “remote start” button which is useful to crank the engine over without starting it. It helps diagnosing problems & is also used when a starter relay or neutral safety switch goes bad

1. Sorry to ask, but have you removed the "dog house"? In a van with a 318, you should be able to work on the distributor with easy access to it from inside the van. 2. The distributor will come out in any position, but you DON'T WANT THAT. Basically, you need to remove and re-install the...