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It does come with an extra side cover, as seen in the milk crate.

wouldn't the retainer cracking be caused by a bent input shaft? I've never broken one and I broken a lot of things.

the break looks like the pulley was flexing.

My last priming: I got one side, but in the end, I had to enlist the help of a friend to turn the crank as I ran the pump. He turned the crank very slowly. It took a couple revolutions before the oil moved.

I always wondered why they bothered to state: 383 "standard cam", on the sticker if that was the only option. The more knowledgable here will eventually educate us. It's like having 6 people in the Cash Cab, fact and fiction will soon be separated

I buy and sell Redwing crocks based on the "ring" test. Pick one up and hit it with a knuckle and it will ring. If it goes "thunk", there is a crack. Sometimes it takes a lot of looking, but in the end, the crack is there.

One should be able to expect it is useable. Why waste people's time and damage your reputation by selling something without knowing what you are selling? The window sticker of my 66 Charger reads: "standard cam" which is 325 horse, never heard of 330 horse until Magnums came along. But, I...

If it ends up as scrap, you can say you tried to save it

Did the VIN match the chassis? With a car like that, I would make differing decisions depending on what it was. If it was numbers matching, I would still thrash it on occasion, just less harshly.

1,500 miles per quart isn't so bad. It means the engine is loose enough run hard. You have the freedom of not caring if you someday throw a rod.

I use my thumb as it isn't good policy to have pokey things around our ears.

In the field away from tools, I find. a straight stick, grab it in a fist, stick my thumb out and press it against my ear as though I was trying to plug it. The sound transfers very well.

Harbor Freight has an inexpensive stethoscope. Good to have in the tool box.

Get new tires and shocks. I know it's not the shocks, but new tires and shocks makes them ride nice again. Whomp might be your warning. Tire failure at highway speeds can be bad, even in the rear. I was looking for a leaky seal as a sign of a worn bushing and didn't think about it being new...

Not sure what a deposit on a tear down would be. Seem a little high for having no history for them. I surf CL for fun and see stuff like this often:

Is it the original block? If not, there's always a motorhome 440 or two on Craigslist.

Might grind a hacksaw blade until it fits the hole. Make a cut then another 180 from the first. Wouldn't worry too much about heating cast. Don't need red hot anyway.

Now you need to break in the rings. There are others more knowledgable who can advise you on that

Breaking in a cam is not the time to trouble shoot. I may have missed it, but I have not seen that there is power when on the "run" position. When the key is in the run position, the coil should have power. You can pull the distributor cap and confirm there is power to the points. Running a...

Could you be getting power on the start circuit then losing power when you let go of the key? You could Hotwire the coil to see. If it keeps running, you can break in the cam and figure out the spark issue later.