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You don't have enough air flowing through your radiator when the car isn't moving. Replace your fan clutch (if you have one), make sure your fan belt is tight/good. You might want to wash out the fins of the radiator & replace the radiator cap & antifreeze while you are at it (preventative...

Not only that, it’s too large a diameter on the water pump end for a factory fan to bolt into it. I tried that fan clutch last weekend and returned it 2 days ago

Look for a Torqflo 922765 Jaguar fan clutch

I have a 70 Road Runner with a Champion aluminum radiator. I’m overheating at extended idle speed (fan clutch bad & new one on the way). I’d like to improve my fan shroud while I’m at it. I’m running a cut up/modified factory shroud now, but it doesn’t fit the best. I’m headed to a junkyard this...

That’s clever

You will need JB Weld “plastic weld” or “plastic binder”…..an acrylic like super glue may work too. If possible, I would recommend plastic weld, scuff both surfaces and clean with rubbing alcohol

No way unless the fan with more blades spins a lot slower

This may sound silly, but “how original” do you want your car. If you are OK with the same size/shape/cooling capacity/appearance as the original radiator, or do you need all the part numbers to be correct?

I’m looking at N96 vs A/C clearance on a 70 Road Runner myself right now. I do know from experience that with a completely factory A/C setup, the 69-72 air grabber air cleaners need a big notch cut off the front lip of the air cleaner to clear the factory compressor (right up to the filter). The...

Any more specific information on this?

What car?

Personally, I’ve had very bad luck with electric fans

There’s no absolute need for rubber bushings. You don’t have them, but I have a brand X car with this issue (body flex & radiator direct bolted to chassis). Since your coolant was only about 1 yr old each time, I’d have to agree with your radiator guy that it’s bad solder. Maybe have him just...

In general, radiators leak because of old/bad antifreeze, though sometimes they can “twist” and leak if they’re bolted directly to the body without any rubber isolators. The other weak link is the solder. So, what type of antifreeze do you run and how often do you change it?

I’d say you are borderline ok.

The easy way to tell is to look for the “low side” fitting where you put in freon. If the fitting fits the 134a filler hose, it has been converted. If the 134a hose does not fit the fitting, it’s still R-12

It’s “borderline” flammable. It’s the ethylene glycol (the anti-freeze part). It’s not easy to ignite, but it will burn. I used to develop antifreeze formulas for Peak

Evans is very, very close to DexCool concentrate (no kidding). It doesn’t cool as well as 50/50. The “no water = no corrosion” concept is accurate, but Evans isn’t waterless….it’s about 5% water (= corrosion).

You've got a tiny coolant leak somewhere. When the cooling system finally got low enough, the remaining coolant boiled and popped the hose off.

Bird 26 makes a GREAT point. Some cheaper lower radiator hoses (suction side) collapse at higher rpm if there isn’t a spring inside to prevent it from collapsing. When cool, you can squeeze in the lower hose and feel for the spring. The spring is about 1/2 as long (?) as the whole lower hose if...