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I think C16 is a floor shift console.

Thanks for the update. I would be interested to hear what you find changes with the AFR when you change the restrictors if you could do another update. Every engine combination is different and getting the carb mixture correct can be tricky.

The quality of the pics is a bit poor but I think you will be OK. The first thing I did was use clear plastic tube and brought the vents up in to the trunk so I could see what was happening. I did some experiments and found that on my car at least the fuel could push up either vent tube right up...

It should work or at least help. If you want me to post a couple of pics of what I did to the vents I can. You do not need to modify the car or the tank it is only rubber tubes and grommets. I believe I modified the vents first which resolved 95% of the problems - it stopped puking liquid fuel...

Same as mine I have a 1968 GTX. No problem at all with with the cap under any conditions. It can get fairly hot here in summer and the modern fuels expand like crazy. It was a few years ago but I think the recommended cap was a 1973-75 B Body cap - but not super sure on that. It was about 50...

The standard 1968 cap is non-vented. However I saw an article in Mopar Action that said you can swap to the later style vented type. I did this it works fine, purchased a new one off EBAY. This might solve some of your problem. My car used to stink and even drop liquid fuel out of the chassis...

You have nigh on 500 cubic inches - the extra suck that kind of displacement and extra stroke will have is it will start to act on the mains circuit fairly early. The circuits of a carb don't go bang on then off and bang on with the next one. My words - they all sort of meld in and out as...

The name idle air bleeds gives it away. The idle air bleeds only really affect 2 circuits in the carburettor - predominantly idle and to a certain extent transition. If they really influenced the cruise mixture they would be called cruise air bleeds. To alter cruise mixture alter the sizing of...

It sounds from your description like the primary main jets are to big. The primary main jets determine light throttle cruise mixture. Get them right and tune the other circuits from there. Go back to the standard idle air bleeds.

I am not sure that tool would work on a standard Mopar valve as the switch has a sealing o ring and that would be sealing brake fluid I guess. I have seen the Ford/Chev valve stick while bleeding and the tool solves that. I have the stock Mopar valves on both my cars and never had problems with...

The booster rod should have around 5 thousands clearance to the master cylinder piston.

I wonder how long they will keep hold of the money. Hopefully they spend it wisely.

I think the factory got it right with the "black out" paint. The grille loses it's definition with light colour showing through.

Good luck hope you get a good result. Do you have the Bendix copy style booster?

That play does not look right in the video. The way you checked rotor phasing appears to be right.

That cam is fairly aggressive for sure and would be happier with a manual transmission. I have noticed Howards Cams give you the specs at 0.020" with a solid grind because of valve lash. With the intake valve closing 83 ABDC it is pretty wild. I don't think it will have much vacuum for power...

IMO the one thing that you cannot get around is the stall speed of the converter. It is very tricky to tune around to much cam and not enough converter and compression. Lets assume the stock converter is 1900-2000 RPM. That cam with the 110 LSA will not idle well in gear at the traffic lights...

That cam will definitely need a stall converter. I think the stock cam would have had a 112 LSA and around 0.450 lift at the valve. It may easier to bite the bullet and change it now. It is a decent cam and you could find a buyer while it is still new.

Take out the inner hex plug from the plug in the casing. Remove the spring and use a magnet to get the ball out. Now you can remove the case plug.

If you have a Suregrip might pay to stay with stock bearings.